Water Fed PoleModules

Window Cleaning

Congratulations on taking your first step on learning to clean windows. Window cleaning isn't just a service, it's a trade. It's important to pay close attention to each module so you can avoid damage, liability, or injury. The quicker you pick up these techniques, the more valuable you will be to your company. This is the basics and eventually you might break away from some of these techniques, tools, or supplies, to come up with your own best practice. While glass is very consistent, getting to it, what's on it, and other factors are constantly changing. Be adaptable and ready to grow. It doesn't matter how great your equipment is if you don't know how to use it.

You'll learn:

  • Window Vocabulary
  • Types of Windows
  • How to remove screens
  • Common Belt Tools
  • How to clean your first window
  • Common Encounters
  • Recognizing Job Hazards
  • Efficiency & Staying Organized

Window Vocabulary

  • Glass Pane

    This is a single, solid piece of glass that's known as a glass pane. Panes can come in a variety of different shapes and sizes.
    Shapes of Glass

  • Dual Pane

    A dual pane is referring to two panes of glass with a seal around the edges. Almost all newer glass is dual pane. It's not uncommon for there to be imperfections inside of the dual pane glass. This could be scratches, smudges, fingerprints, and other issues. These imperfections can be difficult to figure out which side of the glass it's on because there are four sides. You cannot fix the issues inside the dual pane, except for rare windows that are designed to open. Dual pane windows have become normal in today's construction because of its efficiency in maintaining temperature. Over time the seal around the edges can fail causing moisture to get inside the panes. This is known as a broken or failed seal.

  • Sash

    A window sash refers to either a dual or single pane with a frame around it, which could be wood, vinyl, aluminum, fiberglass, etc. The sash is an important term to understand because the sash characteristics and movements dictate the type of window it is. To properly operate a window you'll want to know if and how the sash moves.


  • This window is made up of two separate sashes. Understanding how sashes work will help you become more efficient at your job. The window sash frames can be made up of a variety of textiles such as wood, vinyl, metal or fiberglass. Windows that open can come with many different types of screens which we explain later. The track, sometimes called the runner, is usually referring to the area where the sash sits when it's closed. It's common for window cleaners to open the window and wipe out or detail the track depending upon the scope of work agreed upon. The sill is usually wood that sits below the window. Be sure to wipe the sill and floor after any drips.

Types of Windows

There are several types of windows, styles, manufactures, designs, models, updates, etc. We're going to show you some of the most basic and common types of windows and how they operate. Look at each picture, title and read the description. Window type can completely change the way the job is done and order of operations. When you understand windows and their functions you'll start to understand the best order of operations.

  • Single Slider

    Sash
    One sash doesn't move and the other slides back and forth to open half the window.
    Screen
    The screen sits on the exterior of the window and can usually come off from the outside if the frame isn't covering it and there aren't any internal clips or tabs.

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  • Double Slider

    Sash
    This window is similar to a single slider except that both sashes slide back and forth, allowing the user to open either or both sides.
    Screen
    The screen covers the entire exterior to allow the user to open either side of the window. The screen usually has tabs to be removed from the inside to release the screen. These screens can usually be installed backwards as well, allowing someone to externally remove them. You can pull the screens inside after removal, but it can be difficult because of their large size.

  • Single Hung

    Sash
    The bottom sash moves up and down while the top sash doesn't move. Since the bottom sash sits inside the top frame sometimes the windows can drip externally when you're doing the inside. To avoid drips, keep window locked, wipe drips immediately, or consider doing the inside first, especially old windows.
    Screen
    The screens sits on the outside and can usually be removed internally or externally. If the window frame is completely covering the screen frame then it probably needs to come off from the inside. Don't force the screen.

  • Double Hung

    Sash
    The screens sits on the outside and can usually be removed internally or externally. If the window frame is completely covering the screen frame then it probably needs to come off from the inside. Don't force the screen.
    Screen
    The screen will cover the entire outside to allow the user to open either or both sashes. The screen is external but usually has internal tabs or clips unless put on backwards.

  • Sliding Glass Door

    Sash
    One sash is set and the other slides back and forth to allow users to enter or exit the premise. Always clean the sash farthest away from the screen to avoid the screen leaving marks or smudges. Sliders can also be completely custom and have multiple sashes
    Screen
    The screen slides back and forth on a track to allow for users to use the window as a door. There are two small wheels under the screen that slide across a small track. If the screen won't move or is difficult to move it could be locked. If it's unlocked then the wheels could be worn, off the track, or stuck on debris in track. Using a putty knife will allow you to compress the wheels to put them back on the track or remove the screen and troubleshoot the problem. Wheels are commonly worn in areas with high humidity or salt in the air due to rust.

  • Casement

    Sash
    This sash cranks out away from the window.
    Screen
    The screen is internal on a casement window. It usually has four tabs or clips that need to be released to remove the screen. It's common for these screens to get caught between window coverings and the window crank. Try to remove the screen between the window frame and window covering. If this isn't possible then crank the window out and you can clean both sides from the exterior.

  • Awning Window

    Sash
    This sash cranks out like an awning. If customers leave these open a lot they can be heavily soiled because they sit flat unlike other windows. These are also made in reverse (Hopper Window) and are common in higher buildings because they're difficult or impossible to fall out of upside down.
    Screen The screen is internal on an awning window. It usually has four tabs or clips that need to be released to remove the screen. It's common for these screens to get caught between window coverings and the window crank. Try to remove the screen between the window frame and window covering. If this isn't possible then crank the window out and you can clean both sides from the exterior.

  • Hopper

    Sash
    This sash cranks out like a reverse awning window. These are common in higher buildings because they're difficult or impossible to fall out of and they usually put them as a top sash, just to get in fresh air.
    Screen
    The screen is internal on a hopper window. It usually has four tabs or clips that need to be released to remove the screen. It's common for these screens to get caught between window coverings and the window crank. Try to remove the screen between the window frame and window covering. If this isn't possible then crank the window out and you can clean both sides from the exterior.

  • Fixed or Set

    Sash
    Doesn't move or open. Just lets light in.
    Screen
    No screen since the window opens.

  • Glass Doors

    Sash
    Opens like a door.
    Screen
    Usually no screen, but sometimes has a roll out screen.

  • Turn Tilt Windows

    Sash
    This window sash opens in two different ways. In the first position turning the handle will drop the top of the sash forward, like an inward hopper window. If you continue to turn the handle (while keeping the sash closed) the sash will open inward like a door. Make sure the window sash is pushed closed while making the adjustments.
    Screen
    There is usually an external screen but it's common for these to have to be taken out from the inside while the window is open.

Screens

When it comes to working on windows and screens there are tons of different window companies, styles of windows, yearly models/updates, and different designs on the same style. Some are horrible and some are great but they have a design function so do your best to troubleshoot and use these techniques to not cause damage. See below for some (but not all) common screens you might encounter and where you should put pressure to release them.

  • Screen Pressure

    Most screens need pressure somewhere to remove them from the window. It's not uncommon for window cleaners to use screwdrivers, paint can openers, putty knifes, or other tools to leverage the screen out. These tools all work great but can cause damage if you just start prying on the screen and window. Look at the red arrows on the diagram. Putting pressure on any of these areas will bend the screen and ruin it. The frame is made of thin material, usually aluminum and has no resistance in these areas which is why it bends with pressure. Now look at the green arrows, each direction has resistance allowing you to put pressure without causing damage. When you're trying to get a corner out, remember the resistance is coming from the opposite end, so focus there to release the pressure.

  • Springs

    These are the most common types of screens. In this diagram they have two pull tabs at the bottom and and two springs at the top. On a job these tabs/springs could be on top, bottom, or either side. To get this out, you want to put pressure against the springs which will release the other part of the screen. See the green hand. It's very common for the pull tabs to break off, so try to avoid using them. When you put pressure on the screen, you will get a gap to put your tool in and lightly remove the screen without causing damage or touching the tabs.

    Remember that all pressure on the screen should be in an area with resistance, otherwise it will bend.

  • Pull Tabs

    These are common on internal screens and crank out windows. However, they can be external screens, usually on windows with two moving sashes. To remove this screen pull each tab in to release it. This will usually need to be done from the inside unless the screen is backwards. It's common for these to get stuck between window coverings and window cranks (when internal). Try to pop out the screen and find a gap between the window covering and frame of the window. If you can get the screen in there, it should give you enough space to clear the crank on the window.

    Remember that all pressure on the screen should be in an area with resistance, otherwise it will bend.

  • Flick Tabs

    These are common on internal screens and crank out windows. However, they can be external screens, usually on windows with two moving sashes. These will usually need to be removed from the inside unless they're backwards. To remove the screen flick in each tab, or just on one side. These tabs can be sharp and cut your finger when you're cleaning them, so be careful when running a towel across the frame.

    Remember that all pressure on the screen should be in an area with resistance, otherwise it will bend.

  • Turn Tabs

    These are common on internal screens and crank out windows. These tabs are usually plastic and can easily be broken if sun beaten. To remove this screen, simply turn each tab to release the screen.

    Remember that all pressure o the screen should be in an area with resistance, otherwise it will bend.

  • Hanging Screen

    These types of screens are common on older double hung windows. These screens have two hanging tabs at the top of the frame. On the bottom there is usually some sort of hook that needs to be unlatched from the inside. Once the hook is released you can remove the screen by lifting it up like an awning and lifting up until the hooks release. Since they are usually on older windows, they can be difficult to remove and replace. It's really important to keep them with the same window and treat them with delicacy to avoid damage.

    Do not pry on the bottom of the frame to release the clip, whether it's metal or wood, this will bend the frame. Send someone inside to release the clips.

    Metal Screen Material
    While any screen can have a metal mesh, it's most common on older styles. Don't scrub metal screens with your washer/mop because it will tear the fibers off, ruining your washer and leaving flakes on the screen. Alternate options could be screen cleaners or hosing and scrubbing with a brush. Either way, make sure the metal screen is fully dry to avoid any rusting.

  • Screen Spline Roller

    This tool is used to roll the screen spline in. Most screen fabrics are held in by a thin piece of rubber known as the spline. It's not uncommon for the spline to fall out and needing to be rolled back in. Don't over pull the fabric when re rolling the screen because it can pull in the screen frame and cause it to bend.

  • Customer Belongings

    Moving customer's stuff can add significant time to a project, but not moving their things can lead to broken belongings. Accidents can even happen while your'e moving their stuff out of the way. By understanding how window sashes move can significantly help you get past these obstacles. A sash can crank out, move up/down, or side to side. If you're in a situation with a lot of knick knacks, simply moving the sash might help you access the window safely. Keep in mind this still might not be the most efficient or safest way to reach windows so use your best judgement. If you encounter damage then alert a manager or property owner immediately to avoid personal liability. Assuming that the customer already knows about the damage is a mistake that could involve you and your company in a costly manner. Always communicate, take pictures, and be aware of your surroundings. Follow your company policy on if and when you move customer's belongings.

  • Slider Window Access

    With a slide, window take the opportunity to slide the sash to you. This will help you move half as many obstacles and get the job done on time without causing damage. Regardless of company policy (clients moves obstacles or you do) you're going to run into challenges getting to windows. Try to move as little as possible to get the job done. Always make things that are top heavy the number one priority to get out of the way. If something isn't breakable or there is no consequence to knocking it over, then try to proceed without touching it.

  • Hung Window Access

    With a hung window you can move the sashes up and down to avoid contact with customer's belongings. This method usually requires a step ladder but it can still save you significant time and liability on moving belongings. Remember that in this example you're still working above the customer's stuff so be careful not to drop tools, bump anything and watch your drips. If something is top heavy or breakable you may want to move it anyway or get the customer involved.

  • Crank Window Access

    With a casement or awning window you can easily crank the window out and get each side from the exterior. It's probably not the most efficient way to do an entire house but it's a great way to get around something difficult. This can also be done on a hopper window but it can be difficult to get a good working angle.

  • Windows Over The Sink

    It's common for windows or window boxes to be directly above sinks. When you encounter this, do not step on the counter at the edge of the sink (see diagram). Use the previous techniques by bringing the window to you and staying to the side of the sink. Ideally try to stay off of counters all together to avoid damage, however, sometimes it's not possible. If you break a countertop it most likely can't be repaired and could be very costly to replace the entire piece.

  • Window Coverings

    Window coverings are the most common obstacles on residential jobs and even some commercial jobs. Below are some diagrams and tips for dealing with coverings properly. It's common for blinds to break, they sit in the sun all day and deteriorate and you might be the first one to touch it in ten years. If any of the following doesn't seem right, they might be motorized. If that's the case then talk to the owner or someone familiar with the job to get the window covering up. Looking for buttons, remotes, or small motors is a good indication that it's motorized.

    Blinds

    Blinds are common window coverings because they're affordable and easy to replace. Following the diagram below, the first step in raising blinds is laying all the slats flat. This will allow them to properly stack as they are lifted. Next step is to use one hand to lift the weight of the blinds while the other hand pulls the string. Without lifting the weight, there is significant pressure on a tiny string which can break or even pull the entire blind down out of the brackets. Last step is to pull the string to the side (usually away from the blind) to lock it. To drop the blind follow these steps in reverse, taking the weight in one hand and release the lock with the other to slowly lower it. Due to liability from children and pets federal law is pushing to ban strings on blinds. If you come across a blind without a string, it's probably automatic. If you lift up slightly on the blind it should stay in position. You can gently lift it up it and down as needed, just make sure the slats are flat.

  • Shutters

    Shutters are usually made of wood or vinyl/plastic and are fairly simple to operate. Look at the red piece on the diagram below. A lot of users grab that to turn the louvers but its only purpose is to hold the louvers together. To open louvres, grab one of the louvres (green) and lay them flat. Try to avoid the piece that holds them together. Next use the handle to pop the shutter loose from the clin or magnet and open the shutter. To close reverse the stens

  • Shades

    Shades are made of textiles that cover the entire window from sunlight. Shades are usually lighter than blinds so you don't necessarily need to lift up the shade as you pull. Pull the string straight down slowly and then pull to the side to lock the shade in the upward position. Usually you'll lock the shade by pulling away from the window and unlock it by pulling it toward the window. Never be forceful on any components of window coverings.

  • Window Cleaning

    Formations

    Previously we talked about different types of windows. Now we'll talk about formations. Formations can be made up of different types of windows but the type of formation is the same. For example Bay Windows. These could be all casement windows, all single/double hung, sliders on the sides and fixed in the middle, etc. There are a ton of possibilities and combinations when it comes to formations. There's two main reasons knowing formations is important.

    1. If the customer calls trying to explain their job. If you have a general idea of what people are talking about then you can assist them with information like a price or plan to get it done.

    2. For communication on the job. If you need your coworker to take care of something like a dormer window, it could get missed if they think that's something else.

  • Bay Windows

    A set of three windows with each side window angled, is a formation called bay windows. These windows can be any type or variation of windows.

  • Bow Windows

    Bow windows are similar to bay windows however there are multiple windows put together to create a curved (bow) set of windows. These windows can be almost any kind of window in many variations.

  • Dormers

    Dormers are small structures on roofs that increase attic space, usually with a window. The window can be any type of window. If the dormer window is just in the attic, it's most likely fixed. If there's a loft or room inside, usually it will be a window with an opening sash. If you're unsure ask the customer. Sometimes customer's don't care about dormers that are just cosmetic and go into the attic. It might not be worth getting out extra equipment or dealing with safety concerns for a window someone won't look through.

  • Sidelights

    Sidelights are long skinny windows usually next to front doors. They're often French style windows (true divided light, etc.) with dividers on the panes. They're usually fixed but sometimes they open similar to doors.

  • Palladian

    These are a formation common in certain types of architecture. Palladian windows sets can be French style windows (true divided light, etc.) with dividers on the panes. The sashes are usually fixed but not always.

  • Atrium

    Atriums are open aired areas in architecture designs. These are often for courtyards or green/garden areas. These windows can be any type of window, often sliding glass doors or fixed panes.

  • Garden Box

    Garden boxes are popular in less rural areas to give people the opportunity to grow plants. These often have shelfs inside them, plants, and knickknacks. They can be time consuming and difficult to get to. It's recommended to have the customer remove their belongs for liability. They're often all fixed panes with single hung windows on each side, but not always. Whether you're doing interior or exterior, always start at the top and work your way down because of drips. In case of any bad seals it's recommended to start outside but not required.

  • Clerestory

    Clerestory (pronounced clearstory) are windows that sit between a lower and high roof, being high up inside, unless there's some sort of loft or room to access them. These are usually fixed or awning windows, but not always.

  • Transom

    These windows are on top of other windows or doors. Some houses have transoms on every window which could add significantly more time to the job. They're usually fixed or sliders but not always. The most common place to find a transom window is above the front door.

  • Sunroom

    Sunrooms are rooms extending off of other buildings with glass as the primary textile of the structure. They can also be freestanding, and even have features allowing them to open. Don't move them unless you've been properly trained because it could lead to serious damage or a safety hazard. Sunrooms fluctuate daily in temperature variations because they absorb a lot of light. This can cause seals to go bad, so it's not uncommon for these to leak or have broken seals (you'll learn about that later). Whether you're doing interior or exterior, always start at the top and work your way down because of drips. In case of any bad seals it's recommended to start outside but not required.

  • Window Cleaning

    Traditional Belt Tools

    There are two main types of window cleaning. One is referred to as belting (also known as traditional/trad) and the other is water fed pole (WFP). Water fed pole has its' own module so for now we're going to focus on belting a window. Traditional is important to learn properly because you can't use a WFP inside. Try to focus on learning the right techniques and not speed in the beginning, build good habits. Before we get started we need to go over the basic tools needed and how to setup a belt. This setup can vary for depending on the tools desired and being right or left handed. Try to keep any sharp tools in the front of your belt and visible. Don't stock your belt with more than you need. Having extra weight can create fatigue and extra tools hanging out can lead to more things being lost or knocking over customer belongings. You should be able to get your most typical job done without going back to your work vehicle.

    Squeegee

    Squeegee styles, brands, and design vary greatly but they all serve the same purpose. To pull soapy water off the glass. The rubber on your squeegee needs to create a suction to the glass to pull off all the residue. If you have cuts or worn/dull rubber then it will leave streaks behind your squeegee. On a hot day these streaks can dry before you even notice them, but they can become visible to a customer later when the lighting changes. Make sure your rubber is in good condition. Common squeegee channel sizes for residential work are 12"-18" and 24"+ for commercial work but can vary, based off of project, experience and preference. The smaller the squeegee the more control you tend to have.

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  • Using Your tools

    Cleaning your first exterior window:
    From the minute you get to the house you should start looking at where you'll start, where a hose spigot is, how to get screens out, what tools you'll need, what ladders you'll need, safety concerns etc. Assume all houses have pets and keep doors/gates shut. Make sure you're at the right house and greet the customer with a good handshake, eye contact, introduce yourself/crew, and explain the services/process you'll be doing.

  • Step 1

    Observe the window and make sure there is no damage you might be held responsible for. If you notice damage, contact your manager or property owner immediately so you don't get blamed. Use your screen removal tool to get the screen out of the way. Make sure you understand how to properly remove the screen and don't just start prying on it. Always look for internal tabs or clips that could be holding it in.

  • Step 2

    Now that your screen is gone, use your brush to remove cobwebs, dirt, and any other debris from the window frame and sill.

  • Step 3

    Make sure you have a good clean dip from your bucket. Remember if you ever drop your washer, rocks could become lodged inside the fibers and cause severe scratches. Always clean it thoroughly through running water if it was dropped. Scrub each pane of the glass consistently and repeatedly to break down any debris. Scrub every inch of glass from corner to corner. If you don't, there will most likely be streaks after you're done. Whether you see them or not will depend on the lighting. It's important to follow this step thoroughly because light changes and running a squeegee over dry glass will always leave streaks.

  • Step 4

    With a clean towel, wipe the pane's edges to give your squeegee a clean area to start. If you don't do this you might get drips left behind on your clean glass.

  • Step 5

    Place your squeegee on the glass where you previously wiped and pull all the soapy water off. If you're leaving lines behind your squeegee, you might need to flip your rubber. If you miss sections of soap/water larger than an inch in any direction then you should rewet the window and start over. If your window is drying up before you can pull your squeegee across it, you should rewet it or try keep your washer right below your squeegee with your other hand.

  • Step 6

    Now all your soap will be be at the bottom of the window. Wipe up all drips and detail the edges of the glass. Use one finger in a point on the towel when detailing edges. If you bunch the towel in your hand you will leave smudges around the entire edge. If your squeegee work is so sloppy that you need to start wiping the glass with your towel, then start over. Wiping glass only smears what's on it back and forth. Learn how to use your tools properly the first time so you can do good work, work efficiently, safely and keep customers happy.

  • Step 7

    After all the water has been wiped up and the edges have been detailed get out your wool. You can use it to polish the glass and remove any bug spots or other debris. Be sure your wool is rated 0000 otherwise it can scratch. Always test this in a corner to make sure it's safe to use. You can use wool wet and it works great but steel wool will rust so try to keep it dry unless necessary.

    Getting your wool wet will also leave the window a mess even though it will breakdown the spot, so you would have to re clean after wet wool. Never use wool on plexiglass, fiberglass, tint, or other materials you're unsure of because it can cause scratches.

  • Cleaning your first interior window:
    Remember that you're entering someone else's space. Be sure that your tools, equipment, and clothes are clean. Follow your company policy on wearing shoe covers, taking off shoes, wiping ladders, towels under buckets, etc. Regardless of policy, just be aware. Don't go in with muddy shoes. Keep up your hygiene and look like you're there to clean. Don't drip all over their floors and furniture. Keep tools drier inside and get dips more often when needed. Listen to customer requests.

    Remember the interiors are what the customer is going to see, so make sure the work looks good from their perspective.

    Start in an appropriate area following the wall entirely, either right or left to stay organized.

  • Step 1

    First look at the window and everything around the window to make sure there is no major damage you might be held responsible for. After your blind is out of the way, make sure the window is shut and locked to help seal it. Now get out your washer to scrub the window. Your washer should not be dripping all over the ground and walls. Be sure that your BOAB is emptied before heading inside to get rid of any excess water.

  • Step 2

    Wipe the edges of the glass to give your squeegee a clean area to start. Without wiping your glass you could have drips coming down on your clean glass after you squeegee.

  • Step 3

    Now get your squeegee and pull off all the soapy water starting where you previously wiped the glass. If your window is already drying up or you didn't scrub the entire glass then start over.

    Dragging a squeegee across dry glass will leave streaks. If you miss a spot while squeegeeing larger than an inch, in any direction, then start over. It's important to learn this correctly and how to properly use your tools.

  • Step 4

    Now get a clean dry towel and wipe up any excess water below each sash and on the sill, ground, and wall. It's important to keep drips off of customers belongings. Always keep a finger and a point on the towel when detailing the edges of glass. Bunched towels will create smears around the edges.

  • Step 5

    Get a wet towel and open the window to wipe out the runner/track. Depending on the window, this area could look completely different but it's referring to where the window sits when it's closed. Open the window entirely to get out any dirt, cobwebs, etc. If you only open

    it partially then you might leave remaining dirt for the customer to find later. If you don't have a wet towel, use your washer to get the track wet and then wipe it. This step might get skipped depending on your company policy or order of operations. If the exterior of the window is going to get wet for any reason it might be better to wait on tracks because dirt with usually bleed back in with water.

  • Step 6

    Your final step is to detail the window. You can get out your wool to polish any bug spots, or leftover smudges. If the window looks dark or has bubbles, it's probably tinted. DO NOT use wool on tint. If you're unsure then don't do it.

    Never use wool on plastic, plexiglass, fiberglass, or any material you're unsure of. While you're putting the final touches on the interiors, check the exterior as well for any missed spots (if cleaned already). Remember this is the last opportunity to see what the customer sees. You should always be scanning the interiors for missed spots as you navigate through the job while your position and lighting changes.

  • Window Cleaning Tips

    • Don't do the inside and outside of a single pane window at the same time, this could put too much pressure on the glass, causing it to break.
    • Do not use hot water on glass in frozen temperatures as this could cause the glass to crack.
    • If a spot is stubborn, don't put more pressure on it. Continue using your tools in a polish method, or consider using another product.
    • Always check around your work area and below windows for drips and clean them up.
    • Don't fling your washer when pulling it out because it might get your clean window wet.
    • Always work high to low for drips.
    • Never leave your tools in an area where you'll forget them.

  • Common Encounters

    The following are some things you might run into during your window cleaning career.

  • French Window

    These are also called frenchies or true divided light. The physical grids are called grills, mullions, or dividers. This style of window can be on any type of window. They're very time consuming and require a lot of attention to detail. Some window cleaners who do these types of windows regularly will carry an array of channels to fit between the dividers perfectly which allows for quick straight pulls. New and old windows can have french panes. On dual pane windows, it's common for the dividers to be inside the panes, which allows you to clean the window normally. If you're bidding a project or setting up, make sure you know if the dividers are internal or external. It's common for homeowners to use the term

    "french door" even though they don't have dividers on the pane. They're usually referring to doors with a glass pane that may or may not have dividers in it.

  • Tinted Glass

    Sometimes tint can be hard to spot. If you notice the window to look darker than normal then there's a good chance it's tinted. If that's the case, then do not use wool, razor blades, products with ammonia, or anything else that's aggressive or you're unsure of. To spot tint sometimes you can see small bubbles or notice edging of the pane where the tint was cut. If you are asked to remove tint, check with your company policy.

    Sometimes it will pull right off or it can be melted onto the glass and difficult to remove. It can all depend on longevity, quality of tint, sun deterioration, installation method etc. and can be incredibly time consuming to remove. Tint can also create a lot of drag on your squeegee. Be sure to keep the window wet by working quickly or keeping your washer under your squeegee.

  • Stained Glass

    Stained glass can be incredibly delicate and breakable. Check with your company policy before you touch stained glass. Each piece is an individual pane and very expensive to replace. For liability purpose it's recommended not to touch or try to clean stained glass.

  • Skylight

    A skylight is a flat piece of glass that allows overhead light in. Most skylights are dual paned. Never put any weight onto a skylight with any part of your body. If the skylight broke, the glass could severely cut you and you could be up on a roof, making it difficult for emergency responders. Split the sides if you need to, to reach the entire surface. Before heading onto a roof to clean one, make sure you know how to properly use a ladder, setup fall protection and if you can safely walk on that particular roof.

  • Pet Doors

    More and more customers are adding pets to their families. This means more inserts for window cleaners to navigate. When a pet door is installed like this one, you can't reach portions of the overlapping door without removing it. These can be difficult to remove and even harder to put back. Check with the property owner or manager and get their feedback before attempting to remove these. Be sure that the project is bid to deal with it and the customer's expectations are realistic. Some customers will just instruct you to get what you can.

  • Glass Railings

    Glass railings, sometimes called wind walls are common on patios and decks, especially on the coast. It allows for handrail safety, wind breaks, and lets people still enjoy the view. Sometimes these have handrails on the top or they are strictly glass. If they're glass then chances are you'll drip to the other side when scrubbing the top with your washer. On your first side it won't matter but the second side you'll want to be careful not to ruin the work you already completed.

  • Mirrors

    It's common for customers to ask you to clean their mirrors. Mirrors are normal pieces of glass that have a metallic silver lining on the back that creates the reflection.

    It's important to keep your washer slightly below the mirror top so your soap residue doesn't bleed over and affect the backing. This is unlikely on newer mirrors but it could cause damage on older or antique mirrors. Mounted mirrors, usually above sinks can be cleaned just like any pane of glass while haircutting the top. If a mirror isn't mounted and just hanging on the wall, then extra caution should be taken. Check with the owner to make sure it's secure and safe to clean. Proceed with caution and say no if you can't clean it with confidence that it won't break or fall.

  • Louvers/Jalousies

    Louvers are horizontal slats of glass that can usually be adjusted to the user's preference. Louvers allow air and light through but keep out rain and direct sunlight. Louvers usually have an internal screen or none at all. The slats are sometimes framed or just glass. Either way they can be very delicate, time consuming and difficult to clean. If you're going to wipe them or scrub and squeegee them, then do so lightly. Do not put pressure on the glass. To support each louver you can lay them almost flat and keep one hand under the slat to support any pressure on top. If the slats aren't large enough to run a squeegee across then you can use a wet soapy towel to wipe them immediately followed by a clean dry towel to polish them clean.

  • Old Windows

    Older windows and glass are common in older areas and historical properties. They're single paned and the glass is weak and delicate with a wood frame. The most common types of older windows are single and double hung.

    Unless the windows have been restored it's common for these to be jammed or painted shut. Don't put extra pressure on the glass or the sashes. It's expected for the glass to have extra imperfections or waves in it. The glass is weak and not tempered meaning it will create sharp shards of glass if it breaks. It's very common for the top sash to leak outside on the lower sash while doing the interior. For this reason sometimes it's helpful to do the interiors first. Proceed lightly with older glass and windows.

  • Plexiglass

    Plexiglass is a form of plastic and can have an array of different names. It's strong, flexible, shatter proof, transparent and cheap. But it's very easy to scratch. Using any type of wool or razor blade on it will severely damage it. The easiest way to spot plexiglass is by noticing movement in it when you touch it. Glass feels solid to the touch, where plexiglass feels more like plastic. If you're unsure if it's glass or plexiglass then assume it's plexiglass. These are most commonly used on garage door windows, fish tanks or on unique architecture. Plexiglass can also come fogged and in different shades. Check with the property owner if you're unsure of a pane. To clean lightly scrub the glass with a soapy non abrasive washer and lightly pull off the residue with your squeegee. Inspect the pane for any imperfections after cleaning and either stop or proceed with caution based on the results. Plexiglass can even scratch with the wiping of a towel. If it's this sensitive, stop immediately to avoid further damage.

  • AC Units

    It's common for tenants or homeowners to add temporary DIY AC units into different types of windows. Do not attempt to remove these. This could be a danger to yourself or others below. Removal could also be very time consuming and will likely be difficult to reinstall. If you proceed to wash the portion of glass you can reach, then do so with caution. First, visually inspect the unit to make sure it's secure enough to work around. Second, inspect each sash to make sure they're still securely installed. If both inspections look safe then proceed with caution to clean the sashes you can reach. Avoid any unnecessary contact with the AC unit and make sure the area below is safe and secure.

  • Storm Windows

    Storm windows are sashes that are installed on the exterior of other windows. These can be a simple fix to better insulate a home, similar to a dual paned window. Storm windows can also be made of plastic or other materials and help protect a home in the event of a stormy season. These can be installed permanently or temporary. Storm windows are time consuming because there are more sides to a window to clean and the uninstall and reinstalling process takes time. Storm windows can add significant company liability, as well as extra hazards, especially multi story windows. This leads some companies to not offer storm window cleaning at all. If you're attempting to clean storm windows, come up with a viable plan to uninstall and reinstall the sash safely. Stay organized and create a process for that specific job to get it done. Storm windows can either be installed professionally and easy to remove, or DIY with screws and nails, through the frame.

  • Diamond Panes

    Diamond paned windows are common in old windows and are just french style windows with a diamond shape. They're a little more unique to clean because of the shape and can be very time consuming. If the window is old then follow the same recommendations of washing older glass. This means minimal pressure and light but consistent scrubbing.

  • Low - E

    Refers to glass that has a microscopic transparent coating that reflects the suns infrared energy or heat, installed internally. Low-E glass should never affect the way you clean a window since it's inside the window. On new construction these will usually have a sign that says do not razor blade. This is because of liability as well as the windows are usually tempered, which can severally scratch. This has created a misconception in the industry that Low-E glass scratches, when in fact the coating is inside and the scratches are caused by other factors such as tempered glass or construction debris. Either way, try to avoid razor blades and complete the Post Construction module before proceeding.

    • Solar Heat - This is heat produced by the sun that is reflected by the low-e coating inside the window.
    • Visible Light - This is light from outside that is still able to penetrate through the glass.
    • Radiant Heat - This is heat produced internally usually from a heating source, which is deflected from leaving the interior of the building.

    This technology claims to be an advancement on a more efficient way to control the temperature in a building by controlling heat flow.

  • Defects and Damage

    Broken Seal or Failed Seal

    Almost all modern glass is dual paned. This means there is an exterior pane and an interior pane of glass with a gap in between the two. The gap is protected by a seal. As windows age the seal gets weaker and deteriorates, which lets moisture into the window. When this happens you get a wet or foggy look. Sometimes it can also reveal factory imperfections like finger prints, hand prints, suction cups, squeegee burns, or other issues. As you get more experience you'll be able to spot a broken seal quickly.

    Marks can be on either pane (but still interior) so it gives you and the customers the impression that it's on one side of the glass or the other, even though it's really inside the panes.

    Do not put extensive amount of pressure on the glass as it could cause it to break. Unfortunately there is nothing you can do about a broken seal. They happen to all double paned windows over time, and they have to get replaced.

    This usually happens quicker to windows that get a lot of sun or in areas near the coast where there's salt in the air.

    Educate your customer if you come across a broken seal.

  • This is a typical broken seal on a window. Areas with high humidity will look like this where drier areas could show a hard residue inside. On a hot day it's common for a broken seal to pull in moisture from window cleaning, WFP, pressure washing, soft washing, etc. Customers usually think you ruined the window when in reality the broken seal just pulled in the moisture and should dry out as the day goes on. If the glass is filling up with water, then water is most likely leaking inside the pane and you should stop work. This is different than moisture being absorbed inside and could cause flood damage. Educating the customer to what's going on can be helpful to mitigate any concerns to this type of damage or call backs. Some window manufactures warranty these types of defects. Inform the customer to check their warranty, and if they need to replace, consider a window company with a lifetime warranty for this issue.

  • This picture is also a broken seal but it has Low-e installed internally. This usually looks like a fluorescent color blue, purple, yellow etc. Just like other broken seals these need to be replaced. This is more common on windows in direct sun and with extreme changes in temperature causing the window to expand and contract regularly.

  • Hard Water Spots

    Hard water on glass is common on windows. Hard water has minerals in it (we'll get more into minerals and hard water in the WFP section) that leaves a residue on the glass. If the windows are in the sun and have a significant amount of heat, the minerals can actually get etched into the glass. There are a ton of hard water removers out there that work. However there are thousands of different minerals that a local area might have highly concentrated in their water. This means certain removers work better in different areas, because they might break down a certain mineral better. Find a hard water remover that works well for you and read the SDS to assure proper handling. Put the remover onto the window and polish it with a wool. If you notice a difference then continue to repeat the process until it's gone. If it's not making a difference then the spots might be etched in and the window would need to be replaced or restored. Sometimes a dry wool will give you a good indication of whether it's worth your time to work on the hard water spots.

  • Working on mineral stains, progression:

    1. Clean the window normally. If the stains are new (a few hours) they might come up with a simple scrub.
    2. Polish the mineral stains with dry wool to see if the stains are coming out.
    3. Polish the mineral stains with wet wool, then clean to see if the stains are coming out.
    4. Polish the minerals stains with a hard water remover then clean to see if the stains are coming out.

    If there is no progress after this progression then the hard water stains are most likely beyond the surface and etched into the glass. This is when the project turns from a cleaning project into a restoration project.

    Note:Remember polishing is a consistent light motion, not an aggressive scrub. You can still scratch or break glass putting aggressive pressure on it.

  • Cracked Glass

    These types of cracks are common for houses on hillsides or unstable soil. The house's foundation tends to settle and sometimes this can cause pressure cracks on glass if windows get pinched while the house it settling. If you see something like this don't touch it until you talk to a supervisor or the property owner about the situation. The second you touch glass like this, you become involved. Even if the crack is barely noticeable, you might make it larger when you touch it. If you decide to proceed be aware that your soap solution could end up inside the window from the crack. Do not touch the crack, the glass can still cut you.

  • Broken Glass

    Broken glass can be common from people mowing, weed eating, bullet holes, etc. You should never touch broken glass. It can be sharp and cause severe cuts. Let a supervisor know you found a broken window or the property owner and don't attempt to clean. The window should be left alone and replaced.

  • Scratched Glass

    Scratched glass is a common problem in our industry and can be a nightmare for window cleaners. Scratches can disappear with lighting and dirt or debris on the glass.

    Even lighting from different season can hide or reveal certain scratches. Never assume someone already knows they have scratches on their windows. If you see scratches that are straight and about 4-5 inches wide then stop immediately. These are most likely from a window cleaner using a razor blade on glass. If the property owner doesn't know this, you could be liable. Other scratches that are common are single scratches or swirl scratches. Swirl scratch are usually from a sander or sanding by hand. This is common on remodels or repainted wooden frames.

    Single scratches are usually from accidents with someone moving something like a chair, ladder, etc. Either way, never assume that the property owner knows. Remember that you're going to be the one to reveal all this after the windows are cleaned.

  • Welding or Grinding Marks

    These marks can be incredibly small. These are caused by welders or grinders usually fabrication metal on the job site.

    If you encounter this then look around for something metal like a hand rail or awning. These spots look almost like small rusted bug spots. Unfortunately there is no way to get these out of the glass. The metal becomes hot and melts into the glass. Running your tools over this will destroy your rubber and washer. Using a water fed pole (different module) or wiping over these marks is usually the best option.

Efficiency

  • Efficiency is so important in the window cleaning industry. Window cleaners are selling their ability to do something, so the faster you can do it, the more you will make. Unfortunately just going fast can cause accidents and lead to sloppy work. This is where efficiency comes in. It's working in an organized matter on jobs to ensure you're being safe, giving the highest quality of service and still getting the job done on time. As your skills develop you should be getting faster at making decisions, going through the process, and recognizing problems before they arise. Efficiency isn't just about going as fast as you can on a job but more about being calculated. When you arrive on a job, start thinking about what you want to do. Greet the customer and listen for any special directions that could interrupt your job flow. If the customer is asking for something that doesn't make sense, unsafe, or just inefficient, try to communicate with them the way your company does things. Belting up or getting set up is the first step in efficiency. Every time you go back to the work vehicle, you're wasting valuable time. Make sure you're belted up fully, you grab stepladders, poles, and any other tools/supplies you might need. You can't always think of everything but the more prepared you are, the quicker you can finish the job.

    As you go:
    On each exterior window you get out the screen, wipe the frame/sill, wash the glass as you go. Then collect all screens at the end at wash them together. On the interior you wipe the frame/sill, wash the glass and do all the tracks as you go. In this method you're breaking down each process and doing them one after another to make sure they all get done as you go. Make sure you do the entire process consistently before you move to the next window because you're not going to remember later. You should also be doing the same process as your coworker, make sure you're communicating.

    Task Oriented:
    On the task oriented method you're sticking to one task. This means you get out all the screens at once. Then you clean all the exterior windows at once. Then you clean all the interior windows at once. Then you clean all the tracks at once. This method is great when something needs to get skipped. For example if someone is using a wip on the exterior then you'll want to wait until the end to do tracks. Opening windows will cause drips, and dirty water can leak back into cleaned tracks. You also won't want to open a window while someone is spraying water onto it. If you go into a house and you do all the tracks up until you reach where the exterior guy is using a wip then stop, then start again, you can see the problem. Your work flow is going to be confusing and difficult to communicate to someone else coming in to help you. Staying task oriented also saves time when you're not switching tools constantly. Sometimes this method is great for a really dirty job or a post construction project. One guy can go ahead and remove construction debris while the other guy just cleans (usually single story), probably not better if you have to set up ladders twice. It lets one team member focus on one task at time instead of switching back and forth. Either way, you need to make sure each task is done consistently on the job as promised to the customer.

  • Communicating Workflow

    If you can't communicate your workflow simply, you are not being efficient.

    Good Workflow
    "Highs are done, working left from front door, doing tracks as I go."

    This means the top sashes are all done, he started on bottom sashes at the front door and he's working left, doing the tracks as he goes. You then know job is complete when you two leap frog windows working left back to the front door.

    "Splitting highs, working right from front door, skipping tracks."

    This means the windows are too high to reach from the ground so he's splitting them for you, he's working right and you should get the tracks since you're the low guy (or skip if needed for another reason). This type of communication is organized and it allows another helper to jump in without confusion.

    Bad Workflow
    "I cleaned the kids bedrooms, the tracks are done on the first five windows, then I stopped because of DI, I skipped the master because of a high window, and I cleaned the slider on the balcony."

    This is a mess. It's confusing, inefficient and something is definitely going to get missed with this method. If you can't do the "as you go method" then switch over to the task method and focus on one thing at a time and be consistent.

    Always start a project from the top. This will ensure that there won't be any drips on the windows below. Always work from right to left or left to right, starting at a dead end. The outside windows are usually the best place to start because they're usually dirtier and once they're cleaned, you can see from the customer's view. If the customer requests interior first then do it, but consider doing a walkthrough when the exterior is done to make sure the work looks great.

  • Focus

    All windows should be cleaned using a professional process. Even the best window cleaners miss spots and lighting changes to reveal stuff. For job site efficiency spend most of your efforts on the view windows, kitchen windows or popular areas for the homeowner. This point is not saying to do a fast or lousy job on anything else. Clean all windows the same with care. When you're doing a walkthrough at the end, focus most of your attention on windows where the customer will notice. Lighting will change so you want to make sure these windows look good the entire time the job progresses. Focus your attention where the customer will focus their attention.

  • Think Like A Window Cleaner

    We're going to look at the exterior of a house. As you already know always start high and work to the left or the right from a dead end starting point. The starting point could be a fence, a front door, deck, or a stairwell. When arriving on a project you should already know the services to be performed. At first sight you should be aware of any hazards and how to solve them. Second, look at the type of windows on the home. The type of window could dictate where you start for efficiency and quality of work. Third, what kind of equipment do you need? Keep you equipment away from walkways and other areas where someone could trip. Avoid getting walkways wet and use cones to quarantine safe work areas. If you're working on a commercial project be aware of bystanders or people who don't know you're there. Plan ahead and start with safety.

  • If you feel you have a full understanding of this module, proceed to the test. Once you complete the test, you will be redirected back to the main module page.

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