Liquidator 2.0 End Clips?

Industry Brands Moerman
1

Hi.

Like many here, after approx. six month’s of experience persisting with, and consistently using day in, day out, Liquidator 2.0 channels (+ Moerman rubbers + handles + swivel T-Bars + sleeves + poles) I am simply over the most common shortcomings with/of Moerman equipment. Such as the most obvious. For the average + above average pro window cleaners the Moerman factory rubber wears out at the ends after only one or two jobs. Secondly, I personally am absolutely over puncturing my fingers tips pushing back in sharp sawn-off paper clips when I HAVE TO change the rubber in a hurry.

Yet, I *** QUALIFY *** that with the fact that I absolutely LOVE (I’m sold on) many of the Liquidator/Excelerator’s advantages, which have benefited me and my business. And, that IMO only (note I qualify that with in my opinion only) out-way the hassle that comes from these shortcomings. I definitely acknowledge that this is not the case for others, and I respect that totally.

For those who ARE interested, a brief summary of what the current Consensus seems/appears to be:

[1.] Ettore Master rubber (soft and hard sold in US + UK but not southern hemisphere) is the best all round non-Moerman (non-factory) rubber to use in Liquidator channels.

[2.] FaceLift RazorBLADE RED rubber comes in second, for it’s longevity, but has issues with [A.] cold weather streaking and/or [B.] reported quality issues (nicks in rubber) emanating (apparently) from the factory itself. But generally very good, and simply THEE BEST best rubber for durability/longevity.

[3.] Excelerator Handles, for in the hand, and on the pole.

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[4.] Unger Plastic End Clips for holding the rubber tight in the channel at the ends.

Unger Plastic End Clips ( 1 ).PNG944×436 199 KB

A combination of these three, Ettore rubber, Unger end clips, Excelerator handle, seem to work very well together for anyone who is willing to put a concerted and persistent effort to acquire the needed/necessary window cleaning skills for the/that individual to produce satisfactory results. It also seems that some experienced and skilled professional’s (for random reasons) find the learning curb a lot easier than others.

Trad Man summed up these issues in a recent video:

His technique of working from the inside out (rather than top coner in-wards) IMO is the best way to work with these tools that I have found. And finishing on the bottom sill wherever possible, rather than closing out to one side, reduces the need for detailing. Though, acknowledging that, as is required by the situation, closing out at one side or the other is simply quicker, easier, and more practical, depending on the situation. But try to get into the HABBIT of finishing at the bottom wherever possible.

At present I don’t have any Unger Plastic End Clips. So I have one question, before I buy tomorrow:

Do you find that those Unger clips get in the way at all? They look like they stick out? Is that the case?

Any opinions, and comments on making working with Moerman equipment easier is welcome. Thanks.

Graeme Hibbard.
SPARKLE WINDOW CLEANING
New Zealand.

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2

Instead of RR rubber, give wagtail orange rubber a try. I have found it to be a great wubba.

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I prefer the Professional Hard Rubber.

https://shopwindowcleaningresource.com/professional-squeegee-hard-rubber-12-pack.html

It lasts a pretty long time. I’ve switched from ettore to this. I’d be interested in others feedback on that brand.

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You’ll be getting some. Stay tuned.

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Unger clips? No, they don’t get in the way. I slice mine in half lengthwise as the full clip isn’t required and you’re effectively doubling the number of clips per pack. When I use Ettore rubber I don’t need the clips. Ettore have never given a soft or hard version. Ettore rubber (master if you will) has only ever had a single formula. I would class it as Medium ‘all climate’. the type and condition of the frames dictate for me whether or not to use the softer rubbers. I can get good longevity from soft on new Aluminium frames or older frames with good smooth seals. On older oxidised or perishing seals and wooden and/or painted frames I break out the Ettore or in extreme cases the Razer Red. I use Excelerator handles along with their bi- component fixed handles, an Ettore Contour Pro+ (16" Liquidator channel) and a modded Wagtail PC Slimline handle… all work perfectly well with both Liquidator 1 and 2 channels…

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iv yet to see a vid with anyone smiling or laughing when using a liquidator channel which says it all

plain fact is the tool simply wont last the distance if its used as it comes from the factory without messing about with a mod or 2 … or 3 i dont go out and by any tool and expect to be adapting it -it should be factory ready. " fit for purpose" is the phrase i was looking for. it certainly doesnt work if you give it to an employee with a busy schedule,he will throw it to one side first time it has a problem cos hes got the job to do .i bought one for each of my workers [5] and 2 of them used theirs for less than a day . id wager that 70% of employees wont give it houseroom in the bucket but if youve got a crew who all love theirs write in and prove me wrong . i threw mine after 6 months[i hung on cos id spent good money and was determined to get my moneys worth , but then the penny dropped that it plainly was hard work to use. it was like using a quill pen over a biro. the writing looked great but i hated dipping it in the inkpot

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I’ve all but given up on my liquidators too. I don’t use dish soap, and everyone says you have to use a TON of it for the channel to work “properly”.

Really? I’ll pass on leaving all that residue on the glass. On a store front, that’s still too much soap IMO.

I’ll stick to wags, Unger stainless channels, and legends. Angling and dogearing a channel isn’t hard and I don’t have these stinking issues.

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I have yet to see ANY Window Cleaner smiling or laughing with joy using ANY squeegee. Maybe that’s because those nice young men in clean white coats have got them all.

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They haven’t taken me away yet. Now that I have apple music for android I’m always smiling doing windows.

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Hi Eric.

Tried Ettore in my channel yesterday (14" home cut angles) and found it very very sticky/clingy on the glass. Rubber rolled over a bit. Is that normal? Or is it because it’s a brand new rubber and just needs breaking in?

Must add, that I don’t have any end clips in.

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I find if it feels sticky clingy? This tends to happen with shallow angle of blade to glass. The clips are excessively in play. Raise the angle a few degrees and slip, slip, slip of course. There will be minor drag with the first panes.

Folding over? Shallower turns. I don’t use clips with Ettore but no harm in trying if the folding persists.

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I use liquidators with the end clips and I use moerman hard rubber. The hard rubber wears away pretty quick so I’ll go with the Ettore master rubber.

I started off with unger brass, then unger ninja. My first few weeks with the moerman liquidator wasn’t the best but with the added tweeks it’s my go to squeegee.

I use a spray bottle(zep) and spray the glass twice at the lowest setting and then mop and squeegee. I’v never overly soaked the glass to make the liquidator work better, it just works with my method.

The difference for me is less detailing and that’s all that I care about. Mind you I clean uPVC frames and the liquidator (I believe) was designed for UK based windows. I could be wrong.

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Quite a divisive subject here. They work great for some, and not so great for others. It is a different sort of animal. If you have years of experience using traditional channels (even if you dog ear them), and are not willing (or able to overcome muscle memory) to adapt your technique, you will most likely become frustrated and join the “this is garbage” side. If you are more flexible in terms of technique, then you may love them. Obviously, they work fantastic for some, yet there are some damn fine tradesmen who do not get a good result with them. On top of those two groups, there are the Wagtail devotees who are pissed at Moerman for coming out with a pivoting tool and will trash anything Moerman does in support of Willie.

Plenty of ways to skin a cat, so if you try this tool and it does nothing to benefit you, go back to what works best.

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Absolutely beautiful concise, precise summation. I’m going to cut/paste and put this on a limited edition poster :slight_smile: excellent…

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What is your preferred rubber for your liquidators?

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I continue to rate Razer Red, especially for pole work with the Fliq. The longevity is superb and holds up well even on older less than pristine frames. In hand? Both Moerman Hard and Soft and Ettore. The rubbers that can provide issues are the shorter tongued ones, Unger and Black Diamond. The V2 clip tip sits almost flush with the edge allowing no give at the tips whatsoever. Because I’ve still got quite a bit of BD (it is great rubber in other channels), I’ve modded a pair of clips by ‘shaving’ the tip to give more of a gap.

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So true.

I’m finding that the ettore rubber works rather well in the liquidators channels.

I also have a lot of BD rubber that is the rubber that I use a lot of.

Thanks for the quick response.

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I bought the Luke the Window Cleaner super duper residential special because I wanted to experience the best equipment:
https://shopwindowcleaningresource.com/luke-the-window-cleaner-residential-plus-kit.html

Among the goodies in the box was the Moerman Excelerator. Used it for the first time this morning, and hated it. Before I was through with the job, you couldn’t have pried it out of my hands. I absolutely love my Excelerator! As I get better with it, I suspect I’ll love it even more.

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Cheers Steve, I’m having a quiet break and some lunch. I’ve just run out Ettore but will definitely get more. It’s got a consistency with it in all temperatures that instills confidence.

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Enjoy your quiet break and lunch!

It’s seem that since the ettore is thicker and fits tight, there is no need for a end clips? …Right?

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