For some reason i just can’t get the technique down that you use on tall, skinny windows and also doors, where you cut in as usual in the top corner, then pull all the way down, “scoop” back up, and finally reverse and finish at the bottom. There’s a tendency to leave a line before that last downstroke. I’ve asked for help on this before but just can’t get a satisfying answer and i feel this is a really important technique. Can someone please explain the nuances?
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Those still leave me detailing. IDK either. I just watch the detailing closely to not leave that line you spoke of.
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If I understand the method you talking about - I always have a fine line on the left side of the window (the side of the window were I do my last stroke/pull). I always have to detail that side. It’s not much, but I can’t leave it as it is. Especially on residential.
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It’s almost a figure 8 with the squeegee. No, a “&”. ampersand?
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Is it this technique you talking about?
I’m referring to this one.
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I havent forgotten about this. Every time I do one of those windows, I think of you and I am going to do a video about this, just have to make it a point and also, needed to know exactly what you meant, although I think I do now.
Please specify:
Size squeegee
Brand squeegee
Window width x height approx.
Pole or hand
Soap
Rubber brand & hard or soft
Most of that is irrelevant but gives me idea.
First thought, without seeing you do it is your squeegee may be too long. I am picturing like a 10-12" wide window by 6-8 feet tall. Think Fast food entrance door but the long window next to the door. A 16 or 18 squeegee can be too cumbersome, wheras a 12 might do the trick.
Second, I find the first time always leaves a line. I have to back out 12 inches and do it again and it works. I do dozens of these every week so I will get a video to you.
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Also, thinking logically, if you are on a regular window and you are leaving that same line on any turn, why is that? Isnt it because your pivot is too sharp?
Likewise, on a narrow window, the pivot tends to be too sharp, without enough swing, thus leaving your troublesome marks. This is usually remedied with a smaller channel, which gives you the space to swing.
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I was thinking about this the other day. It may or not be helpful to a new guy…
I remember thinking that as I move my squeegee I never think about making mistakes. All I think about is where the squeegee is going next. For the new guy, try not to think of the mistakes you’re making as much as what your doing with the squeegee. Don’t pay attention to mistakes. Pay attention to technique. You’ll make fewer mistakes…
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Pivoting too sharp will sling water off the end of your blade and make a line all the way down your last pull.
Like @TheWindowCleanse said you can mitigate that by using a smaller channel and doing a wide swing at the top before your last downward pass. The point of the wide swing is to dry your blade since it will be carrying a ton of water with the long upward vertical pass. When the blade is dry then you just have to watch your angle and make sure the water you pull down doesn’t creep past the end of your squeegee toward the center of the pane on that final pass.
Commercial doors are a great way to practice this technique. Wet the outside door glass, then open the door and stand on the end so you can squeegee with one hand while you watch from the opposite side what is happening with the water under your blade. Then you can practice by sight what works, and train yourself to repeat it consistently by feel.
I recommend you practice accuracy with a small channel like 12"-14" until you have it down pat, then move up to an 18" but keep your focus on accuracy. Speed will develop naturally as the movement becomes familiar.
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The mr sanchez vid it s little on the side of detailing isn’t important side of things, he is using a wide body and not using dive bombing so he would be leaving edge detail with his technique it seems that this isn’t an issue and prob doesn’t detail edges.
This technique would work fine with a liquidator or a modified squeegee
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True.
I use Sorbo and Liquidator, depending on which window.
With the Sorbo right side is detail free because I divebomb that side, but the left side is always a thin line (because I of course can’t divebomb that side with this method)
You could…
True - wouldn’t have to detail the sides.
Tougher with the middle 
Yes! I just cant get it to work without leaving a mark at the top of the final pull down. (I’m not worried about the detailing left on the side…o know that’s proly unavoidable.)
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Thanks for all the feedback guys. I’ve been suspecting that the turns are too sharp. Funny thing is, i can do it just fine if there are several up and down pulls. It’s only happening on the last one. Oh, another problem is that sometimes the right side of the squeegee won’t dry and that a ton of water from the up stroke pours back down like @Samuel was saying. That problem was 10x worse with the liquidator though.
@TheWindowCleanse thanks for remembering me. I usually work with just a 12" pulex stainless, 1/2 ounce gg4 with 2 second squirt of dawn for 2 gal of water, ettore rubber. Sometimes i use a 24" sorbo quicksilver with ninja handle. I used to use the liquidator 14" and 18". The problem is on all sizes from typical casement windows to standard storefront doors. Ironically, i have the least problems with the sorbo.
@Trenchfeet ima try that “&” motion. That encapsulates the movement really well as I’ve seen it done correctly in videos. I actually would love to find a descriptive way to teach every aspect of squeegeeing…sort of like tai chi style. “Ok…so now pull out your 24” sorbo and we’re going to practice ‘purple crane spreads its wings’ on this next window. " 
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Screw it…perfection is for pus***s…just touch it up
with a cloth and move on… 
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Lol yes, but it’s wasting me time. And especially on hot days i don’t wanna touch the glass with a towel if i don’t have to.
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Are you a pirate now?
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Great technic!
I wanna watch the whole Mr Sanchez series. I’m noticing there’re some gems in there.
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