Best Practices, Filthy Windows

Inside windows clean very nicely, but years since cleaning inside, even longer outside. Some exterior windows are at height and filthy. How would you clean these windows? My concern is that my WFP will not suffice in cleaning these windows. I intend to use my brass wool attachment with the Tucker brush, but wonder if a surfactant might help. But how would I get soap up there?

Ideas? Suggestions?

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Here is where GG4 can really shine. The slip is terrible for squeegee work but who cares if you are wfp? Pour two capfuls into 5 gal bucket, fill up a couple squeeze bottles or just dunk bronze wool into it, scrub, rinse, beauty.

Or laddering up and getting nose to glass never fails.

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+1

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I don’t know GG4, but expect that laddering up may be my best resort. Of course, I didn’t REALLY want to hear that.

@MrSparkleVA, George, here is the product.

https://windowcleaner.com/titan-glass-gleam-4-soap

If you buy it, buy the quart. It will last you months.
But visibility and slip on glass is less than desirable, so may want to use it just for wfp. But finish is A+.

I have some to share. [email protected] if interested.

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I have a job exactly like this. She has had me clean her windows for going on 4 years now twice a year. And there are 5 exterior panes I JUST CAN NOT REACH - they are nearly 3.5 story. Not only do I only do second story or less, even when I push my limits these I just can’t reach as they are above a really slanted driveway and I need a 30ft + ladder to get the right safe angle.

They are FILTHY. Well I got my wfp setup this year and really wanted to get they ears of bird crud and others off. So first I pure water rinsed them, then I made a typical solution of my dawn water mix and proceeded to use my bronze wool wfp attachment and scrub away, after that I gave a quick rinse and used my Tucker brush to rub in more, (still slightly soapy which is what I wanted) then rinse twice and damn they look beautiful!!!

This is all just my opinion, thank you.

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Now THAT’S what I wanted. One of the windows can’t even be reached with a ladder. So whatever I do with THAT one WILL require my WFP.

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The great thing about wfp is that it is so fast that if I misjudge how dirty they are and the wfp doesn’t get everything off, I can still re-do by hand and be within my bid. I find steel wool better than brass and you can always throw some kind of soap on the attachment.

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Remember George, the Pure Water replaces your squeegee, not your soap. There isnt any property about pure water that makes it a super cleaner, just a super rinser. Sometimes.
Soap away, mon ami. But rinse away as well.

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What kind of WFP brush are you using. Some scrub better than others … a lot better.

Hook up a pump up garden sprayer with GG4 in it to a window cleaner pole. Scrub with WFP brush. GG4 rinses off easy with pure water. On a second story window I have used a trigger sprayer to apply soapy water to filthy windowsill.

Me, and science, would disagree with your statement.

The reason pure water cleans better, is that there are no contaminants in the water for the water molecules to attach to. Pure water has a mildly acidic PH. Tap water doesn’t.

I have actually found that pure water will lift off light hard water staining off glass, where tap water will not, nor would soap and mops.

What it does not seem to melt off are bug crap and tree sap.

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What’s the ph level?

… I remember reading in some Tucker promo stuff from 2000 or so, that it actually does have some agitation qualities from being pure…couldn’t prove it either way by me though…

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Depends. RO DI water in a jug, not exposed to air, is 7 or just below.

The more air exposed to RO DI water, the lower the PH can go.

Recently received a Tucker. Before I was using this 14" Streamline that is quite the scrubber, with the angled bristles to get the ledges and sills.

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Also, deionized water is like a magnet looking to form new ionic bonds on a molecular level with any free particles that carry a charge.

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Is Tucker still considered the #1 brush?

That’s is how I understand it also, coming from a guy that used di tanks for 20+ years maintaining automobile appearances. :wink:

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Any idea where info is on a brush test rating?

I’d be curious to see who performed that and what criteria was considered.