WFP Tank set up

Yes a deep
Cycle battery works better and the ball valve will not hurt the pump

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8.3333333333333333 lbs/gal

(Know-it-all):unamused:

Only cuz i had to figure it out for PW.
But that one pound makes a diff with a big tank.

So I filled the tank up to 3/4 today just to see and I can definitely notice to weight, braking, turning, accelerating, ect. I will be going with a 100gal. Instead. Thank you!

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I have a 24 Series Interstate marine battery (standard auto battery will wear out quick because itā€™s not intended to be run down an re-charged over and over) and I have gone as long as a week without charging it, but I usually donā€™t go more than 2-3 days. The flow-controller is almost a necessity to prevent excessive battery draw down and water conservation, otherwise the pump just runs at the max psi and gpm which is totally unnecessary. When I set mine up from the get go thatā€™s what John recommended and I can see why, without one you will probably use 2 or 3 times as much water. The only drawback is the controller has gotten ridiculously expensive compared to when I bought mine. You can probably import one for less than half of what I have seen them for lately. Iā€™m not sure who makes them but itā€™s obvious they have been re-branded by different suppliers.

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Thatā€™s when itā€™s time to get a box truck like @go4dabukz Brennon is rolling around with a 100 gallon tank for pure water and a 400 gallon tank for pressure washing. I was super impressed with his setup. Itā€™s not complete yet but itā€™s almost there.

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Nice to meet you! My name is Rocky and Iā€™m located in Cheyenne, and do a lot of work in northern Colorado as well. If you need anything just let me know, hereā€™s my email hphrwindows@yahoo.com.

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ā€¦once it has his customers favorite beers on tap it would be complete.

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Thatā€™s is really efficient use of water.

I used my 125 gallon tank for the first time today. Although it was a temporary setup in the back of my truck and not in trailer yet.

I filled it with 70 gallons in 35 minutes night prior, ran it dry in 3 1/2 hours with 2 users.

Was needed for a job that only had one exterior water source so tank helped with keeping 4 guys busy and getting the job completed quickly.

Iā€™m even more excited to get the trailer build underway.

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Hey, sorry to awaken this dead topic. I have a couple questions as I think I am going to get together a tank this year. I have a pump in a box already, do I absolutely need a flow controller? Or can I just put a ball valve on it and eye ball the pressure that comes out? Mostly because the flow controllers are stupid expensive for what they are.

Also to note I have a xero pure I would use to fill the tank. a Shureflo pump with the automatic cycle stop, Marine 12v battery. I guess Im just trying to figure out what all I need, Obviously the tank, but anything else?

and has anyone ran accross any cons to having a tank set up vs. running the di/ro off of the customers tap?

Thanks all!

Benefits of a tank far outweigh a house connection IMHO. I lugged around my filter for a year and then switched to a tank. A flow controller is almost a necessity to save on battery life, regulating water pressure, and conserving water.

You might check with the https://www.thecleaningwarehouse.co.uk on a flow controller, they say they ship internationally. Their Water Genie is only 82 euros and is identical to the RHG which I purchased 5-6 years ago, I donā€™t know why they are so astronomically high priced here now. If you can get a good price, Iā€™ll piggy back on your order, Iā€™d like to have a spare!

Hey thanks for the info, and i will do some checking around and let you know.
I guess what im not really understanding is, if i have a univalve that i can cut off flow of water, and a pump that automatically shuts off when water flow is restricted, and if i got a ball valve to restrict water flow. That should conserve water just fine im just manually setting water pressure, and as far as battery it would be the same as my old set up wouldnt it?

Ha im no engineer so im just trying to figure all possible options, so i apoligize if im a little dense here. :rofl:

@John might chime in and explain.
The pump is going to produce the highest maximum pressure and pull the maximum current all the time, a ball will not change that factor (itā€™s nothing like turning your kitchen faucet on). Youā€™d be better off to install the appropriate jets in your brush that gave you the best working flow. The flow controller regulates the pump speed so the pressure and flow is managed to a usable load while conserving the current it pulls from the battery. I consistently use just two brush jets so I only need the pump to do about 50-60% of the work itā€™s capable of, with a rinse bar I need every bit of itā€™s capacity.

I have a tank set up, an havenā€™t used a flow controller I use the univalve 2 years now. I think your fine without one, probably betrrr off with one, but now that I hear what Ryan is saying it probably explains why my battery needs charging often. I guess !

Ok I think I get it. So if I almost exclusively use a rinse bar, I will probably max out the psi on the flow controller, but I will be drawing power from the battery constantlyā€¦ actually sounds like I am doing that already since I need to charge my battery every night anyway. I may just pay the $400 on the site and buy the kit and call it good just to be safe. Thank you guys for your help.

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Oh hey Majestic, have you had to replace the battery, or pump in the last 2 years?

Sorry

No , the only down fall so far is forgetting to charge the battery ,An turning it on to do a job, an itā€™s almost dead.
For me no big deal. I always have my half cube tank with me. I just run straight from spigot then, or break out the ladders :rofl::scream:

A plus for having a flow controller. You can monitor you battery. I carry a spare battery, but you can always just use jumper cables to your vehicle in a pinch.

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I donā€™t think so, especially if you calibrate the flow controller with your rinse bar on