So I’ve seen these three methods to rinse in various videos: 1. Just rinsing the top. 2. “Fanning” the water starting from the top working down. 3. Rinsing a few seconds at the top and then pulling the brush straight down ahead of the water.
Which is best? Or are there specific situations to use one or the other? It seems most videos show the “fanning” method, but I’m intrigued by method 3, which i saw only once on a Gardiner training video. Of course method 1 would be sweet if that were actually enough, but i can’t imagine it.
Herman did you make the swivel or buy it? I wanted to get a swivel for my wfp based on a recommendation from a friend who uses a reach-it, but I couldn’t find one on wcr. I think it would really help though.
Sidenote: swivelling would require twisting the pole, but everything comes loose on my pole if i twist it at all so I’m not sure if it would even work. I wonder if maybe the clamps could be tightened somehow to prevent this. The brush tends to come loose too, but I’ve already put it on so tight I’m not sure if i can tighten it any more.
… I use Constructor brush that has the rinse bar. There is nothing like a rinse bar for
hydrophobic. Nothing beats it. I usually go with the 'fanning" method but on super-phobic
I pull straight down.Seems a bit quicker. I used another brush today that has 4 jets on it, the glass was
hydrophobic and it was torturously slow compared to a ‘water bar’. I can hardly wait til Tucker and others come out with their own version of the “water bar”, it is so much better than any double or quadruple jet system.
As for the swivel…I use the Reach-it one and it is a really good tool. Makes things much easier on the body.
I put one on my Tucker brush too. I think there are others out there like in Hermans vid and I think Gardiner makes one.
If your brush is not hogs hair, you should be able to maintain contact with the glass without leaving residue. That can help you rinse a bit more quickly on hydrophobic.
I take that back kinda they make both style angle adaptors with swivel. I don’t want to plug another seller but window cleaning resource doesn’t sell them.
Good thread @WVWindowWashing These are all good questions and answers. @Matthew. In your opinion how would be the best to rinse large panes that are hydrophilic at the top half and hydrophobic at the bottom half. Dealt with this all day and it sure wash frustrating. I tried the boars hair first and decided to switch to the tucker brush. Maybe I should get a different brush. I do like the thought of the constructor for glass like this.
I get that kind of glass a lot too… Sometimes I’ll just quit using the wfp and do
it all with a squeegee because the glass is soooo hydrophobic the squeegee is
much faster. But now with the water bar on the constructor I am more inclined to keep going with it even when hydrophobia slows things down. And it does slow down rinsing with the constructor too.
It’s not a miracle tool. But it will be less slow than a 2 or 4 jet brush. I am not trying too tout the constructor brush, in fact there are many things about those brushes I don’t like and I have 5 of them. They have taken the water bar principle way beyond any other manufacturer…so far…
you can also squeegee off your pure water in many cases.
i use brushes that deal with hydrophobic fairly well and tend to over wash and over rinse any way.
