My issues are with Perry personally not with his product it was wrong of me to intimate that it was inferior to the ipc hydrocart, they are different systems for different needs.
2013 World Series Champion
Boston Red Sox
My issues are with Perry personally not with his product it was wrong of me to intimate that it was inferior to the ipc hydrocart, they are different systems for different needs.
2013 World Series Champion
Boston Red Sox
it would seem booster pump would be the leaning toward answer to get the flow, but then a 12v @100psi doesnāt seem that practical either (since gas and 110v have their issues)
thanks for the input, this is helping me since Iām not at a convention seeing all options in operation etc.
so it sounds like for higher gpm flow preferences (that still under 1gpm) RO is more of a tank thing, buffer tank etc, rather than a āliveā operating system . . .
thanks Perry
me and the techs lovin our reach-its
No I was just out of weed, all set now, thanks for caring.
2013 World Series Champion
Boston Red Sox
Interesting
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I believe there is a case for each design of Pure Water :
LOW USE ( regardless of TDS) = DI TANKS
REGULAR USE, Soft Water, Water available on site = DI TANKS
REGULAR USE, Soft Water, Occasional āWATER NOT AVAILABLEā = DI TANKS, Buffer Tank, Delivery Pump
REGULAR USE, Hard Water, Water Available on site = On Demand RO-DI
REGULAR USE, Hard Water, Occasional āWATER NOT AVAILABLEā = On Demand RO-DI
REGULAR USE, Hard Water, continual āWATER NOT AVAILABLEā = Static RO-DI system either at base, with delivery tank and pump,
or in-vehicle RO-DI system with integral tank.
NOTE : If working over 35ft (3 Storeys), add Pump Controller for complete flow control to the Delivery Pumps above
NOTE : If working over 30ft occasionally (read the article āAnalyse Your Glass Areaā) USE DI ONLY - RO for LOW, DI for HIGH. This is cheaper, more foolproof and simpler than pumps.
NOTE : If ground water is consistently low temperature, add either a booster pump or a water heater.
Did I miss any applications ?
The Wash-iT PRO is, in fact made for the Wash-iT brand by IPC Eagle - and it is designed to meet the gap between the two IPC Products.
IPC HYDROCART - a BOOSTER PUMP System with a similar filtration design as the Wash-iT PRO can serve higher volumes of water under more adverse conditions.
IPC HYDROTUBE - irregular use / moderate use - has expensive proprietary DI and CARBON modules that are easy to exchange but increase the running cost of āROā significantly.
WASH-IT PRO - 3 Flow - Designed around the logic of āRO for LOW, DI for HIGHā ā¦ No Pumps required, No proprietary filters, we pass on the full benefit of RO filtration to the owner. Wash-iT PRO can work with a pump, or with a Tank, or with a Water Heater - the technology and the quality is no different - IPC is a class act. This system is around 65lbs and suitable to be lifted as a portable and mobile system. There are many, many features that we, and the IPC Engineers have designed into the Wash-iT PRO that are unique to the Wash-iT PRO to suit itās target owner.
In Billās case, he already had IPC HydroCarts, and felt the lighter design of the Wash-iT PRO was not the right match. We greatly appreciate his faith to buy one in the first instance.
We acknowledge our place in this trilogy of solutions, and willingly submit to the IPC Hydrocart as the right solution in cases like wanting to run multiple operators off the one system.
We also point out that you can have one operator agitating with tap water and one rinsing with Pure Water on occasional applications where two operators is required with a Wash-iT PRO.
I hope this helps ā¦
ahhhhhhhh, now I get what this statement is really all about
Di only for high due to higher flow
I just had a super aha moment
Iām barkin up the wrong tree for what im trying to do
silly me
now i get it
That is funny - you can see RO FOR LOW , DI FOR HIGH printed real big on the sides of the Wash-iT PRO to remind you !
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Larry we have two hydrocarts. We donāt have a wash it at this time.
Quick question , my RO is at 032 tds and my DI is about 001. Should I keep changing the DI until my RO reaches 050-100 or should I keep changing the DI ? Also not sure when should I change the carbon . My local tds is about 400 If that helps
I think it is cost efficient to keep replacing the DI until your RO reaches the 40 to 50% level. You should be changing your carbon filter every 3 Months.