Wash-iT Pro DI change

For those of you who have been using the Wash-iT pro for a while, can you tell me how often you need to change your DI? Please include average hours per week usage and average incoming TDS.

thanks

I’ve got teo wash-its two systems and the resin gets changed about every 40-60 days. TDs is 300-500 and I guess we use at least one for about 15 working hours each week.

My hyrdotube would only last a few hours…

Thanks for the feedback. 40-60 day is really good. especially at those TDS rates.

I don’t have a Wash-it. I have an IPC Hydrocart, which has a small 4" X 10" DI filter. My TDS is usually about 280, but can range as high as 600 here. My resin lasts for about 30 days. If I use it in the neighborhood with 500-600 TDS, it gets fried much more quickly.

Thanks, not a Wash-it but still able to crossover your experience.

I’m just trying to gather info for those buying the wash-it what they can expect as far as changing out the DI. We’re only at 150-160 TDS here so I’m guessing a DI change about every 2 months with 20 hours per week usage.

do you fill up a tank with it, or use it with a pump between spigot and wash it?

I’m getting .4gpm output from wash it with spigot 7gpm 40 psi pressure, which ends up too low out of brush head 1/16 pencil jets for me. So evaluating options for the trucks.

The system stays in the truck and is just used to fill a 30 gallon tank. The tank then fills our backpacks. I had the same problem with the stream strength…it just wasn’t where we needed it to be…even with a 5gpm pump pushing the stream was still just a tiny bit weak. (We get a solid 1/2 gpm)

I should have said something about the tanks…that makes a big difference as we conserve a lot of water using the portable tanks over washing directly from the machine.

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For those with low flow during winter, remember the production of any RO Membrane is SERIOUSLY affected by the viscosity
( density) of water - and the thing that affects viscosity most, is temperature. These membranes will deliver great flow once your ground water increases …

To keep it simple, the rating of the membrane is assuming the incoming water is at 77ºF … If the incoming water is at 39ºF, the flow is HALF of the rated GPD …

The performance of all RO membranes vary by 3% cumulative with each degree … less flow with colder water, more flow with warmer water.

So … the question warrants being added to your answers : What is your current ground water temperature ?

the wash it is a great system,

my specific situation is exploring options to convert from DI exchange service for daily use

Although my result was performed in the 70’s temps, I did not realize Ro was so finicky about temp overall, interesting

I predict future wash it versions with options for 100psi 12v, 100v, and gas pumps, or even smaller tank size attached “all in ones” brodex style :slight_smile:

the tank option has me curious but is overkill on weight for smaller tacomas

then its pump before, or pump after from tank for most on job versatility and issue avoidance . . .

anyone have any additional input on what they’ve experienced and what solutions they’ve found ?

We sold the washit and use the hydrocart, with better results.

edited for Michaelmole

2013 World Series Champion
Boston Red Sox

Which IPC?

I’m not sure, Larry, Bill’s crew usually has it, when I use a WFP I just use a Di tank.

2013 World Series Champion
Boston Red Sox

I guess [MENTION=330]hunterst[/MENTION] should edit his post to reflect reality

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Or we got rid of it and I forgot about that, you do see the at this time in Bills post

made that edit to reflect reality for you

Bruce,

I wrote an article about 3 months ago in WCBO about this very topic.

From a design point of view, my take on it is as follows :

FILTERS

The decision of the filter should be made about the filter … in other words, integrated filters with Tanks are a luxury. There are pros and cons and conveniences and limitations of both ways, but the decision about filtration should be made with the understanding of filtration in mind, and not just a lazy ‘give me an all-in-one that works’ …

There are two categories of filters -

a) built in to a tank system and,

b) On Demand

The beauty of On-Demand is that you can, at any time use it to fill a tank, and you keep the viability of portability and using customer’s water on the customers’ site.

Versatility : choose On-Demand.

PUMPS

There are 2 kinds of pumps - Booster Pumps and Delivery Pumps.

Booster pumps are usually AC power and are in front of the RO to push more water through the RO …

Delivery Pumps 12V, are mounted after the Tank (and usually in front of DI) and are dedicated to pushing water to the brush.

Usually a Pump Controller (see later) is used to enhance the experience and power consumption of a Delivery Pump.

The best use of a Pump is to have it dedicated to the brush - not pushing water through the RO, however, a Booster Pump will increase the output of the RO, as will a water heater.

For each 10 ft (3 metres) of gravity head, you require 5 PSI of pressure from your Delivery Pump. So … to work at 6 storeys, you need 30PSI dedicated to gravity.

Your pump should be rated to the flow that you ACTUALLY need - eg - less than 1gpm per operator - the higher the output of the pump, the greater the resisitance you need to put inline to get the actual flow you want. The higher the resistance, the more Amps will be drawn and the hotter the pump will get. The hotter the pump gets, the less efficient it becomes. etc, etc …

TANKS

A tank is a tank is a tank - you can but them for $100 and they hold a liquid. The logic of buying a special ‘window cleaning water’ tank can be argued with pros and cons.

The Tank should be sized to your daily requirements of water based on;

a) are you intending to carry a days supply with you, or ,

b) are you going to use it as a buffer between your On-Demand Filter and your Delivery Pump.

If you have an On-Demand filter - you may be well served with a 50-200 litre (15-60 galllon) storage tank in your system to act as a Buffer and emergency 30 min - 2 hours supply of water.

To have a delivery pump, you must have a tank of some sort.

We are developing a buffer tank system.

BATTERIES

The battery should be a Deep Cycle (Leisure) battery … these are designed to drain and charge over and over again …

The pump should match the maximum demand of the pump - so if you have an 8AMP rating on your pump and you want to be able to work for 10 hours non-stop, then you can buy an 80AMP Hour battery.

The pump will only actually draw 8 AMPS when it is facing resistance equal to it’s maximum pressure rating (eg. 100PSI pump, at 100PSI, the pump is drawing 8AMPS - over 100PSI, the pressure switch in the pump is activated and the pump will turn itself off) …

PUMP CONTROLLERS

Lee Burbidge from WCMTV is currently editing a series on these. The summary is as follows :

A pump controller will allow you to set the flow you require from your brush while you are on the ground. The pump controller will make the pump deliver that same flow, regardless the height that you are cleaning at, or whatever resistance is in the line. This results in worker efficiency.

The pump controller will, in effect reduce the draw on the battery by around 50% so - a 40AMP Hour battery will do the job above.

A pump controller will cut power to the pump before the pressure switch is tripped. This means you can block the hose as often as you want ( AquaTap / Aquadaptor) without damaging the pump.

In every way, every delivery pump is to be recommended with a Delivery Pump. It will pay for itself.

Great post Perry, thanks, I copied and printed it for my file

at the end I think you meant every delivery pump should have a pump controller?

All in ones aren’t that lazy are they?

I mean a skid mount setup with all the bells and whistles you describe above that can be secured to a pick up bed that has that buffer tank of 20 gals sounds pretty cool rather than lazy :slight_smile:

there isnt one that suits all situations for everyone, but like any product, each is built to solve a specific key frustration

coming from the pure excess volume, pressure and flow of DI exchange tanks with just a tap spigot that exists, it’s more of an adjustment/research/engineering issue than I anticipated to get away from them

I see why the gas engines on some, booster pumps that dont need 110v

Yes - I meant a ‘lazy decision’ process, rather than a ‘lazy system’

I stand corrected …

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I am completely in favor of a small tank and delivery pump / controller, over booster pumps - booster pumps cover a multitude of design errors.

However, the very north USA gets cold like crazy - your ground water will be 39 degrees or below, for sure, this year.

I think you would gain more from a propane water heater than a gas pump … But that is a hypothesis from me, not something I can back up at this stage.

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Just want to clear something up, talked to Bill about the wash-it, it’s a good system just not a fit to our needs.

2013 World Series Champion
Boston Red Sox