That is true and many clients now have drip systems installed for their plants/flower beds surrounding their homes. This particular glass was a sunroom which faced a small yard that has sprinklers watering it spring through fall. The area doesn’t see much rain and the “nursery” company employees & sometimes owners 
aren’t educated (or concerned) about the glass when they are placing their sprinkler heads. Also sometimes it is just inevitable that water will be blown onto the glass due to the regular high winds. But that is where is the sealant plays its part nicely. But definitely like you said if it can be avoided and conserve water at the same time, that would be best. 
Pics looks good.
What process do you use to get that result.
Sorry for the late response, I used a an applicator, then buffed the solution on the glass for ten seconds and squeegeed the windows.
Sorry for the late response, I used a an applicator, then buffed the solution on the glass for ten seconds and squeegeed the windows.
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Where do you find Delime Doctor?
Way late on this but The Janitor Supply Co in Fort Wayne, IN
have you used this on many projects? It doesn’t look like its meant for window glass if you look at its info sheet online.
I have it has to be used with care on aluminum they have a product to coat
the aluminum with. The company has chemist in-house that make products to
suit individual needs then they mass produce them and market them to
similar businesses.
KMorgan,
Excellant pics. I love them.
Regarding sealants. There are so many. Some are not worth bothering with at all. Some are middle of the road. And some are really great. The only way to really know which is the best for your application is to do a test.
I have found there are at least three things that work against sealants. Harsh ultraviolet C from the sun. Alkali attack from reformed hard water spots or concrete. And just simply time. These are all variable. That is why I suggest side by side testing. The one I find the most interesting is UVC. This is what gives us a sunburn. Did you know you can spend the whole day in Southern California and not get anywhere near the burn you would get on a cold day in Northern New Hampshire? It all depends on the ozone hole. So. This also means someone in Southern Cal will get different results when testing EnduroShield than someone in NH. Very different!!! But if we are asking which sealant will work best for our application, again I reiterate we must do side by side testing on the same window with all the various sealants in question over time. At least six months.
Henry
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Hey Matt. What is your method used for hard water removal? Have you ever used bar keepers friend? I am using phosphoric acid and a light buffing compound rain x and rain x to seal. I should try enduroshield
I can’t speak highly enough about enduroshield! It is a great product. Somewhat expensive, but the coating is guaranteed for 10 years. I have been using it for 5-6 years and haven’t had to reapply it once. Just make sure you remove all the hard water first. And charge accordingly.
We gotten away from using acids and bar keepers friends for stain removal. Not that it doesn’t work, we just had inconsistent results. In a pinch i still use crystal clear 550, but only on a rare occasion. We use diamond magic for manual light stain removal. If you use it with a buffing wheel it could scratch the glass. But works great for light waters stains, oily residue. And you don’t have to haul out all the heavy equipment.
We use the GlassRenu system for hardwater removal. It is almost impossible to mess up with their cerium oxide. And you get a very consistent result. I have a little mouse sander with white pad to get into the corners.
I do also like the Mr Hardwater Kit. For a temporary sealer the the Mr Hardwater sealant works so much better and lasts longer than RainX.
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I use Diamond Magic for hard water spots that aren’t too badly embedded in the pores of the glass, but found that brass wool scratches the glass. I now use Diamond Magic with a wet white scrub pad and haven’t detected any scratches.
I have not used a sealing agent but may look into Enduroshield for some customers who’s sprinklers spray their windows. I try to talk them into switching out their sprinkler heads with drip systems as it usually occurs with plants up against the house. Spray is mostly lost there where a drip system will go right to the roots.
Saves expensive spot removal for the windows.
How is it on your repeat cleans as far as removing deposits?(what usually is your frequency) How do you usually remove them after enduro-sealing ?
I had posted on another thread maybe year ago to your recommendation of ES. I’ve done the same as far as chemical vs polishing goes. In the past tried all kinds of acids/abrasive but now I primarily use MWH liquid polish. Also ever since using the GR pro kit I prefer a hard felt pad instead of the nylon for light stains if not manually polishing (most that I encounter for the 1st time need a machine polish)…
Most of my cleans are quarterly or biannually and I get a yr or more out of MWH in sun & some that are mostly or always in the shade are going strong 3 yrs later. But I ask about deposits because I always have scraping to do each quarter that sprinklers are running & just wondering how your experience has been.
I took a vid on my last quarter of what i normally encounter on my maintenance round. Sealing glass that is prone to hard water is certainly beneficial. Great info Matt…
Most of our recleans are quarterly, just use a little extra elbow grease with our strip washers. We are using GG4 sometimes have to cut it with a splash of dawn.
Enduroshield is great in all conditions. We put it on a southwest exposure golf course window that gets nailed by the tee box sprinklers everyday. Window still repels the reclaimed water and only spots up of the very bottom. But just a little extra scrubbing as if you were to clean it twice and the spots come right off.
Haven’t had quite the success with shower doors as I would like seems to leave a haze that takes a while to wear off.
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