Scratched the crap out of exterior low-e

Welcome to new tech my friend! Its NOT ONLY ANDERSON, but ALL manufacturers are putting this coating on their glass. Of course, its NOT all the glass they make.

Here’s Pilkington’s, here’s [URL=“http://www.oldcastlebe.com/products/architectural-glass/heat-treated/heat-strengthened/glass-colors”]Old Castle’s, the list go’s on fellas. Its hard to find on the old castle site so if ya missed it;

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[TD][COLOR=#006633] Clear Glass Products[/COLOR]
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[TD] Clear
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[TD] 1/4” (6mm) Oldcastle Clear Float Glass
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[TD] 5/16” (8mm) Oldcastle Clear Float Glass
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[TD] 3/8" (10mm) Oldcastle Clear Float Glass
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[TD] 1/2" (12mm) Oldcastle Clear Float Glass
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[TD] 3/4" (19mm) Oldcastle Clear Float Glass
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[TD][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000] Self-Cleaning[/COLOR][/SIZE]
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[TD][SIZE=4][COLOR=#000000] 1/4" (6mm) Pilkington Activ® Self-Cleaning #1 on Clear[/COLOR][/SIZE]
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[TD][SIZE=4][COLOR=#000000] 1/4" (6mm) PPG SunClean™ Self-Cleaning #1 on Clear[/COLOR][/SIZE]
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[TD] Low-Iron
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[TD] 1/4" (6mm) Pilkington Optiwhite™ Low-Iron Clear Float Glass
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[TD] 3/8" (10mm) Pilkington Optiwhite™ Low-Iron Clear Float Glass
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[TD] 1/2" (12mm) Pilkington Optiwhite™ Low-Iron Clear Float Glass
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[TD] 1/4" (6mm) PPG Starphire® Low-Iron Clear Float Glass
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[TD] 3/8" (10mm) PPG Starphire® Low-Iron Clear Float Glass
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[TD] 1/2" (12mm) PPG Starphire® Low-Iron Clear Float Glass

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This is why, one the calls that come in I ask what kind of glass or windows do they have. Unless they give hints that the windows have been there more than 3 years. Even still, it pays to find out.

Also, remember, its ONLY on side one. Thing is, the way it works is a reaction that happens when UV rays and water touch the surface of the glass. It can only clean so much. We’re still needed. Now, THEY just need to label it right and keep the dang stickers off the glass and everything should be fine.

“Now, THEY just need to label it right and keep the dang stickers off the glass and everything should be fine.”

I was thinking they need to do like Chevrolet did with their Hybrid Suburbans, put giant vinyl lettering on all the glass, so no one can miss this miracle of technology:rolleyes:

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So what was the verdict?

After reading all 5 pages, I was asking myself the same thing.
Push comes to shove you might consider, hiring out someone that already performs glass RENU services in your area.

Your located in Vassar, MI, correct?
I jus’ did a quick search using their Website http://www.glassrenu.com/ found (2) people in MI, that do RENU.
If you as of yet have not resolved this issue, I’d call 'em Monday morning and get the Rep’s contact info. and call 'em directly.

http://glassrestorationservicenetwork.com/

48357-3837 Highland, MI.
49503 Grand Rapids, MI.

Here’s what I also found … it maybe a little costly but at least you’d keep a customer and more importantly your hard earned reputation!

https://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=42.643769,-83.611941&daddr=42.643769,-83.611941

Highland to Vassar, MI. 72.5 miles 1 hour 27 mins
Grand Rapid to Vassar, MI. 148 miles 2 hours 33 mins

Good Luck and please keep us abreast, we’re all interested to hear the finally out come.

Thank you very much! I will call him in the morning! At this point the builder is looking into replacement and faulting the manufactorer. Although the replacment is going to be a big project. I will certainly look into this as an alternative.

I was just finishing a large job when the customer asked me, “What about this little spot?” and pointed to one of the hundreds of French panes. I said, “I’m just now going over everything to make sure they’re detailed. This will come off easy…”, as I reached up with a piece of 0000 steel wool. Rubbed the spot with her watching and scratched the surface! I asked, “Do these windows have a film?” She said, “Yes, they all do”.

Question: Is there any way to repair the scuff marks without replacing the film?
There isn’t a visible tint to this film. I wish she had told me when I started the job! I wish I had asked!
What to do?!

I blade dry glass all the time. Usually after removing the solution there are always patches or flecks still stuck on but not the whole thing. Glass isn’t that hard. So its just this one? Any way to find out what kind of glass this was or who made it? Can give you insight as to what type coating was put on it. Low-e usually is placed on inside between the layers. I use bronze, steel, and synthetic steel wool. Fine 0000. Usually use scrubber because it seems the wools are too soft. Unless there was something else on the pad. You might be able to see if a glass guy can look at it and see if it is repairable. If they give free estimates, why not. Can’t hurt. Might be less if they do it. You wont have to buy the kit and if you screw it up you buy a new window anyway. If it was scratching in a few areas but not all over it could be a faulty coating. Sometimes custom only means the size is uncommon but we still use the crappy glass and coatings.
I’ve scratched before and sometimes the cost of a new window was cheaper than the polishing to fix it. Majority of my work is new const homes.

See that is what we are here for to give each other hell and offer a hand when needed.
Worse case scenario, you can just scuff it up really bad and give it a frosted or opaque look.

NO, there no way to fix tint that has been scratched.

Look for a local tint guy to do the the replacement of the film.

Im surprised you did not notice the tint on “ALL” the windows.

Are you sure its tint? How many window are damaged?

^ this

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^i agree, although it is always better to use slip with a blade. Dry blades do not scratch if they are sharp.

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I love it! The client just might go for it. Of course ill have to charge extra…

Charge extra for repairing a mistake you made?

Thats what I was thinking…I hope this not another Ben just saying…

No, not Ben. He was referring to a comment I made. If all else fails he can scratch the hell out of the rest of the window giving it an opaque or frosted glass look. Designer glass is “special” so may need to charge more. Not charging extra for the repair. Sometimes when you reply to thread vice reply to post the replies will post later after other threads and not in a sequence so it may not make sense. Thats all it was. Trust me he is not very happy about this. Again. Thanks lady for the info after the fact. The good old days with a bat idea strikes again. LOL

I was refer to post #47 then #53, not your post.

If its a low e/comfort coating it CANNOT be repaired at all. the film is baked onto the glass the film is not removable it is part of the finished glass product. You will know by the type of scratches in the film, if it looks like standard scratches its just film easy fix, if you have what looks like black/grey permanent marker type marks … then sorry mate.
I hope for your sake its just a tint type film, that you can just remove the damaged square, if not expect to have to replace the glass low e or comfort glass is VERY expensive due to its UV resistance.

I know. His 53 was in reply to my 49. So if you were to read 47 and 53 without the others, would make sense. I should replied using a quote. I always forget to do that. Sorry.

Need to add a clause to your scratch waiver. Like, “owner will not tell me after the job is done that there is a special coating on the glass”!
But, seriously, that is messed up. Would be nice if she told you before you did the job.

I’m curios are the low e coatings something new in the states?
I have to deal with this kind of glass since 2003, every CCU clean we are REQUIRED to obtain the specs for the glass before we clean a single pane.
What i don’t understand is you can tell from the moment you wet the glass up with your washer that its not normal glass, even before this u can wipe your hand across the glass and feel the difference.
If it went to court you would be liable for not doing your do diligence to find out the type of surface you were cleaning and how to clean it.

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