CC550 and Safe restore are not cleaning products. They are restoration products. If the window is dirty a glass "cleaning" product is the right product for the application. A glass "restoration product" is not the right product for the application.
Using the most efficient tool and process.
Checking every window with a UV light before cleaning is not efficient. Neither is having to wet and razor the window several times when you can wool it and the dirt comes right off the first time. Not to mention wet, wool, squeegee is much faster than wet, razor,wet squeegee, or how it would really go with heavy dirt wet, razor, wet razor, wet, razor, wet squeegee.
Using a tool that is adequate for the task.
A Razor does not always remove the heavy dirt build up on the glass, and in most cases on first time cleans it does not remove all the heavy dirt build up. Even when it does remove it you have to really scrub the glass with it which quickly dulls the blade leaving it less adequate. To me this makes it the wrong tool for the task. Wool will remove it every time unless the glass is stained and needs to be restored. This to me makes wool the right tool for the task.
Just to be clear I don’t use one restore to clean glass. I apply, rinse, then clean as normal. I’m curious how you define restoration? Seems to me that if I am dealing with windows that won’t come clean with a scraper, that would qualify as restoration. Again, appreciate your input and I plan on ordering some bronze wool…
I don’t work in the exact working conditions as you, but my Triumph 6" scraper typically removes heavy dirt build-up very easily. Rarely have I had to flip or replace a blade due to dullness. Usually, the thinner stainless blade requires replacement due to a chip when it catches on a vinyl frame. The carbon is thicker gauge, and is extremely sturdy. I just received the newer, thicker Triumph 0.20mm blades, but haven’t tried them yet. I also have the heavy duty Triumph handle and blades – very thick and sturdy.
I would have to agree with What A Pane, on the condition of some of the glass in the Dallas area (did not see the issues I see here, while I was cleaning in Colorado). The dirt is baked on and takes a bit of elbow grease to get it clean, I have found the green truck/window brush that was available here (WCR) to help out a bunch for exterior cleaning.
First off let me just say I have no desire to attack anyone, rather to share and exchange information and experience. And have a good time. I also get the impression you heart is the same. So with that in mind my response is meant in a respectful way only being direct for the sake of clarity.
I can’t speak for any other area other than Dallas Fort Worth as I have not worked anywhere else. Here in Dallas the heat really bakes the dirt on to the Glass as it probably does in San Antonio. I have cleaned glass here for the last 13 years so I have had time to perfect the process, not trying to compare my experience with yours, but just so its clear my comments are not with out experience with using a razor or trying to use them to remove heavy dirt build up.
I have to train every guy I hire on this issue and I usually a few times. When you clean glass in this condition if you razor it it removes a lot of the dirt but not “all” the dirt. even when your razor runs smooth on the glass there will usually still be a light haze on the glass that is usually only visible at the right angle and usually at the top of the glass where it collects the most. you can usually see it best from the inside in direct sunlight. When I hire new guys I always tell them the razor is for light dirt and stuck on debris only and the wool is for heavy dirt build up. It never seems to fail, after some time when I check on their performance they are using the razor for heavy dirt build up. When I check the windows they did you can see the light haze on the glass and I have to show it to them and remind them what I told them. It usually takes a few times of reminding and showing them the dirt they left on the glass for them to catch on. They usually think I am just being a jerk until they see the dirt and then their usually ****ed because I’m right. Can’t win for nothing can you.
In this area if anyone said they use a razor blade to remove heavy dirt build up, based on my experience I would have to question weather or not they removed all the dirt and did not inspect the glass properly. Its easy to miss this until you catch it and catch on, and then its like clock work. Wool will remove all the dirt even the light haze left by a razor blade. Unless you use a razor blade in combination with a brush and then its really the brush that is doing the bulk of the removal.
I can’t give scientific qualifications for Glass that needs to be restored but I can give practical qualifications. If wool does not remove the dirt it needs to be restored. and using CC550 and then rinsing is not an efficient cleaning method, nor is it practical, unless you are not using it properly (using the safety precautions on the label, and following the application instructions). The same goes for using safe restore.
First of all One Restore is for cleaning and at the right dilution it can be used to clean glass.
However CC550 is for removing minerals, calcium etc off glass must be used at full strength.
Both these products can be used for restoration of glass if applied correctly, depending on how severe.
Not disputing what you are saying, just saying I haven’t seen what you describe here. I have no problem getting all baked on dirt with my triumph scraper, except in cases of extreme neglect, which is when I use the one restore.
I’ve been in the industry for 7 years myself, so its not my first rodeo. I didn’t get all my five-star reviews and satisfied customers by leaving a thin layer of dirt on their windows, I’ll promise you that.
Ok so Cleaning is a very broad term. Restoration could technically be defined as cleaning under the strict definition of the word, and vise versa. As far as window cleaning techniques and procedures go there is a distinct difference in my book between cleaning with a soap to that can be handled with your bear hands and using a corrosive acid requiring extra precautions and procedures.
One restore is designed to remove staining from several building surfaces including glass. CC 550 Is specifically designed as a glass clearing agent. It is not designed for other surfaces as far as I know. CC 550 will remove some stains on glass One Restore cannot, because One restore is not designed to be used [U]just[/U] on glass. The reason One restore is effective at removing stains on glass is because it contains Hydrochloric acid, as does CC 550. CC 550 Also contains Hydrofluoric Acid. My guess as to why One restore does not contain Hydrofluoric acid is because that type of acid may be harmfull to some of the other surfsces One restore was also designed to be used on (pure speculation). None the less the acid contained in both products is highly toxic and corrosive, which is why the safety label on both products instructs you to wear chemical resistant rubber gloves and a proper breathing mask.
Even though Eaco Chem uses the term “cleaning” on their website as a use for their product they are refering to the restoration value of the product. In other words the terms restoration and cleaning are being used interchangeably. The products is designed to “restore” or “clean” building surfaces other soaps that don’t contain acids can’t.
One restore and CC 550 Are designed to attack contaminants on the surface in a different or more intense way than soaps. both products can be classified as a cleaner under the strict definition of the word however they are not intended to work the same as regular window cleaning soaps and therefor in my opinion cannot be classified the same as when cleaning when regular soaps.
In my business I use the term cleaning to define using regular window cleaning soaps along with traditional tools and equipment (t-Bar, brush, wool, razor, squeegee) to remove dirt and debris from the glass and restore the glass to its original clarity. I use the term Restoration to refer to glass that cannot be brought to original clarity using these methods, But rather require more aggressive chemicals, Tools, and procedures (Acids, safety goggles, rubber gloves, polishing compounds, mechanical polishing equipment). As there is a a lot more involved with the later I feel it is necessary to draw a clear distinction between the two. Whether the terms I use to describe the two are the correct terms according to their strict definitions or not I can’t say for certain but the important point is that there is a distinction.
As I said before I can’t speak for your area, but I can promise you if you clean a job here in Dallas that has not been cleaned in 5-10 years you aren’t going to remove all the dirt with your scrapper. If you do it will take you soaping and scraping vigorously several times before it will all come off. Then it will only take a few windows before your razor will be dull and ineffective. Not to mention why do it that way when if you would just use wool after soaping it once then squeegee and its perfect. Much more efficient. Which in my book makes it the right procedure here in Dallas.
It is! the first 5 years I cleaned windows I searched for a miracle product (not a harsh corrosive) or tool that could eliminate having to scrub the glass with wool. No luck. The closest thing I have found is a hogs hair brush and razor the corners, which is not as practical as a t-bar. Oh well. Once you do a job, as long as they do it with in a year you may not have to wool it again. After a year there ia good chance you need to wool it again.
I am in similar country as you but here the pulex micro tiger is referred to as a pulex micro PUSSYcat. Not aggressive enough without over soaking and over scrubbing. You may want to try a couple of the diff sewn on abrasive strip sleeves. Scrubbing power is great but water retention is terrible. The porcupine is a happy medium but still less than ideal. My fav is still the blue max or blue grass depending where you bought it when it was still available.
Thanks for the tip Buddyo but I’v tried them all. The ones with the synthetic pad sewn in don’t work well at all, at least hear they don’t. The blue devil is the one that works ok in some situations. I keep it on the truck if I need something on a pole. the hogs brush works great on commercial but not as practical on residential. The one I haven’t tried is the 6 inch steel wool t bar sleeve. does it work well? What about the other sleeve pictured on I think the first or second page of this post. I think its yellow.