Right on Alex! I was wondering about that, Ive banged up my razor enough times for it to be on my mind when im scraping. No worries now.
I’d be interested to see what you could do with a rusty one.
I do believe rusty would scratch Mr Robinson
Go on - do the video
Did you try that with both Stainless and carbon blades?
I have had stainless blades that have had bent corners after I dropped them. I am hesitant to let any of my employees use stainless blades because of this.
That is crazy! Well glad that is settled…phew!
The stainless blades are not more likely to bend (situationally) than the carbon steel after dropping, nor are they more likely to scratch.
I do realize that stainless blades are typically thinner than carbon steel. And, that Triumph stainless blades are magnetic (lower nickel content / will still rust.)
I used a carbon blade. I have to see if I have any stainless laying around.
Interesting video, although I only watched it for the “commercial value”, was there any commercial value? and could someone please tell me WHAT THE HELL DOES THAT MEAN?
You might want to ask Gary…LOL
Settle down Now, Doug!!! I really do want to know what he meant by that though. If anyone knows please fill me in. WHAT IS THE COMMERCIAL MESSAGE??? ( is that too many question marks?)
The razor doesn’t scratch the glass because the steeol of the blade, whether carbon or stainless is still not as hard as the glass.
Change the chemistry of the steel - rust (iron oxide) and it becomes harder than the glass, and therefore will scratch, every time.
An interesting side note to this is that the Low-E (low emissivity) coatings are actually harder than the steel of a blade, and that is why when (if) you ever have a Pella Designer Series I window, with the Low-E applied to the inside of the RGP (removeable glazing panel), and you take a razor to it, those grayish marks are NOT scratches in the Low-E, they are actually metal molecules from your blade being removed by the hardness of the Low-E coat. That is why you can never, EVER hit exposed Low-E coatings with any sort of metal - blades, steel wool, brass wool, even the edge of a channel or the screws of a handle will leave a mark.
Nice video. I’ve used this same technique right in front of clients that had accused us of scratching windows with a dull or chipped blade. It is a way to quiet them down in dramatic fashion.
The fact that the window in the video is wet has no bearing on the results. I’ve done it both wet and dry, and have never scratched glass with this as a demonstration.
Now, heat treated glass witrh fabricating debris? That’s a whole different result.
I find when the glass is wet though - its a lot easier & you actually remove the problem a lot faster with better results (unless its a pin-head). Thanks for the chemistry lesson - thats why I love these forums.
Remember the old saying…scrapers don’t scratch glass Fabricating Debris does!!
I have several accounts that have scratched glass in small concentrated areas from the employee’s using razor blades to remove signs and stuff. How did these scratches get there if razors on dry glass don’t scratch?
These scratched areas are mostly around doors, because of signs. They are not fab. debris, I can use my razor all day long without a scratch in the same area.
Perhaps all the fabricating debris has already been displaced.
The scrubber on a heavy duty sponge can scratch glass; so can the edge of a screwdriver. How [I]did[/I] those scratches get there?
how do the painters scratch windows so bad. is it do to the rust???
The windows I am talking about do not have fab. debris. The windows are perfect and scratch free except for the small 2 inch x 2 inch area were tape was razored off with no water/soap. I am sure most window cleaners know what I’m talking about.
My guess is that alot of the scratches may be caused by sandpaper being used to prep for painting. Maybe?