From the footage, it appears your going a little slow on the turn. Which is good for learning (and what we recommended). Well done so far.
What you will discover is the turn you’re trying to achieve is a more of a slide-turn! It requires two things on your part.
The lightest possible feather touch on the turn, not a hit.
Intense control, what Polzn Blades refers to as “precision”!
Your aiming for millimeter precision which requires control over both the inside (lower) squeegee end tip and the outside (higher) squeegee end tip on the turn. Remember your turning and sliding on/from the inside of the pane. That’s the key! Work from the inside out!. You shouldn’t be trying to hit the edge (jam it in) and ride (grind) it along the frame. Aim for as close as possible and the slightest feather touch and light slipping along the caulking. Add a we bit more speed to the turn each time you practice, and you should improve on and/or get rid of the turn mark your mentioning. Be patient. Improvement will only come with time and practice.
It’s taken me a year of persistence and frustration to get it really under control. Hope this helps.
Got it all sorted now,as above I took the advice of doing the turn faster and the streak went away,I got fixated on slowing it down so I could show the streak in the video,now that I am used to the 14" size it comes more natural to go quicker which is making it smoother too and allows me to feel what either end of the channel is doing,going slow left me with no feel over what it was doing,the only detailing I need to do now is wiping away any excess water from bottom of the frame,really handy to not have to touch the glass at all.
Hi Steve,just wondering who you use for your public liability insurance? I am looking at changing mine,most seem to say they won’t cover for any scratches on glass or tint film,I am assuming this will standard through out everyone?
I currently use AAMI but about to switch to get more height limited to 3 stories atm.
No one will cover scratched glass here, as a professional it is assumed you know methods to use that wont scratch, never use anything abrasive on tint, or blades on tempered glass and you wont have to worry.
I’ve over 60 vids showing it works. My three year old can use it no problem to. Problem with tool… No problem, with operator. Practice practice practice. Apply detergent to applicator for good thick consistency not runny. Glide will be great. Use correct rubber either moerman or ettore master rubber.
I use Unger soft rubber in summer and moerman soft rubber in winter, only because of its too soft for warm climate. For me a hard rubber doesn’t work well in the Liquidator channel.
Yes if you try hard enough yes you might get it.
See that you got the hang of it.
But most people just want to get and at least some what use it normally.
Not have to mod or change the way they use a squeegee, add more soap, change angle, use different handles, use different squeegee rubbers, changing them because they burn out quickly at the ends etc.
All they would like is just to be able to have a natural grip and movement while using a squeegee, straight out of the box.
Not have to watch numerous how to videos which the better way to use it.
Yeah i get that pal. It’s just weird some folks can use it straight out the box, others seem to get issues non stop. Most people that have issues are those with certain techniques or habits which there not willing to change or adapt. Now your point was why should they change there method? Fair point. The answer is that no other tool can match the excelerator and liquidator combo. No other tool can change angles between 10 - 40° no other tool can zero detail without modifying it. So the short answer is that it’s worth changing your ways slightly to get the most from the tool. It’s like buying an F1 car but saying I’d rather drive it the way i was taught to drive a normal car… won’t work, you need to change how to drive to get full potential. Same with moerman tools, they are precision tools not standard ones so they take a bit more practice and slight method change for some to work but worth it in the end.
You can drive a race car, like a normal car. You can’t however, drive a normal car like you can a race car.
The very problem that you have to use MUCH more concentrated soap just to use the Moerman, coupled with the problem that you have to change the way you squeegee, should make it obvious that the problem is with the tool, not the operator.
Personally I do not do as suggested and use soap on the washer to make the tool work properly.
I still use deep turns and do not have issues with leaving steaks, unless the rubber is worn.
I will admit rubbers wear at least twice as fast, but hey, a $4 rubber vs hours in time detailing…
I know what I pick.
Each to their own, I saw a video the other day of straight pulls it wasn’t good, customers don’t seem to need perfection, just the appearance of it.
Come on man the only folks that blame the tool is those not willing to try or use a different method. Besides who gives a monkey what squeegee your using, not me m8 but can tell ya one thing for sure that if it came down to what squeegee is faster at leaving a detail free window i know what I’d pick and it wouldn’t be a standard tool as I’m no standard window cleaner. Takes time, practice and skill to use the moerman and some folks just can’t and that’s ok the other tools will be easier for yourself
There is no such thing as “detail free”. Unless you like doing sloppy work.
It doesn’t matter to me, if you love or hate them. I know this much, I won’t spend any more of my money on poorly designed tools. So guess where my future dollars get spent? Nope, not with Moerman.
Modified channels get the same “detail free” effect as the over priced, plastic Moerman stuff. Sooner or later, another manufacture will come out with their own version, and I bet, it will shrink the fan base or moerman.
Moerman and Bob had a great idea, but IMO, had a poorly executed product. Maybe whoever is next, will improve it and make it much better.
Overpriced? Wrong, almost identically priced to other premium channels…WCR prices for 14” channels: Liquidator $11.50, Ettore Brass $11.50, Steccone (my second favourite) $11.24, Unger S+ (a genuine Rip off of the DIY dog ear) $11.42…
I’ve said before many times. Have owned and used Liquidator in all sizes from day 1 of release. From the first few straight pulls to dial in the attack angle to the glass I’ve never had issues and on regular route and residential the time saving is significant. On first cleans, irregular or less than pristine frames? I simply use a more robust rubber. Personally Razer Red or Black Diamond or Unger Hard.
You’ve no idea what your talking about pal but it’s fine I’ve noticed it’s quite often you being this way on the forum most of the time. I get it, your annoyed you can’t use the tool and can’t admit your struggling to get the great results. Thing is your forgetting something and that is there are thousands of folks using it with no issues and I witnessed first hand at the biggest cleaning convention, folks with no experience of the tool use it unmodified and have great results so its not the tool it’s the user being stubborn and not willing to change up there technique slightly. Honestly i know you’ll probably reply to this in a tit for tat way but do me a favour at least try the tool in the way that’s been suggested and you don’t even need to publicly admit it worked when you use it the way it’s being shown to use. Yes there is such a thing as detail free once you got the knowledge and skill, keep working at it and you’ll get there, or stick to other channels and keep wasting time detailing
Difference of using a tool over and over on one windows style selected to demo a tool is simple. Add dirty windows, frames and many different styles of windows and the results will be different.
Which squeegees are better for “less than pristine” frames, as mentioned above by @anon35812390 ?
I must add that I am intrigued by his recommendation to use different rubber. I hadn’t considered that. When I have encountered crummy frames I usually switched to str8 pulls .
When encountering old colonial divided frames, one must slow down even more, otherwise all the nooks and crannies will cause the squeegee to “bump”, leaving marks. But no detail is possible.
Logic. Who to believe? The ones who spent 10 minutes with it, gave up, threw it in the bin, and went back to their 1936 brass model, or the ones who stuck it out, spent the time, and learned a different setup and method? (Not directed towards you Malcolm, just general question.)
Btw, no detail is possible with any squilgee. There are a couple different methods.
