I got it sussed! (The liquidator 2.0)


#46

:+1:


#47

Working out a way to mod the liq clips to fit the wagtail Chanel is also high on my to do list :+1: the only thing letting down the wag is the pad and clip system


#48

Good to see you around @Guesty! :wink:


#49

I’ve got the clips on my Wagtail pad :+1:t2:


#50

Ye I saw your video Juls it looks good, but I need to make the clips somehow fit the wide body Chanel of the flipper, as I mostly use the wide Chanel rather than the slim Chanel, cheers pal


#51

Instead of butchering your combi/orbital channel you could try and mount the male part of those “dot and snap” fasteners (tents, car covers - metal, sewing - plastic) to the ‘fin’ on your channel.


#52

Good thinkin, cheers pal


#53

Here’s another useful modification (Notice I didn’t say “fix”! @evgilliand :wink:) to the Liquidator end clips that can make your life easier.

I shaved a bit off the leading edge to give the rubber blade some more breathing room
Here it is from the factory

And here it is after some tailoring with a dremel

The net result is that the tool is now much less sensitive to the angle of presentation, and more forgiving of sharp(ish) turns, since the leading rubber edge is less rigid and more able to flex and allow for input variations in pressure and angle. Performance does not seem diminished in the slightest, and it cuts a fine edge against the frame.

If Moerman wants to make some changes for the 3.0, they could either dial back the forward projection of the clips, start making rubber with a longer tongue, or reduce the rigidity of the end clip to allow more flex.

The LIQ clips could do with a less extreme dog-ear as well, in my opinion. Just 1mm-1.5mm of deflection (vs ≈3mm on the current model) would probably be sufficient to eliminate detailing and drastically reduce rubber wear. Might have to break out the heat gun and make that a project for another day.


#54

What rubber is your ‘go to’ rubber Samuel? This would work really well on the shorter Black Diamond and Unger…nice tide ‘mod’ by the way :slight_smile: between you and Brian Cox I’ve almost convinced my wife that a Dremel is going to be a necessary part of my tool kit… :slight_smile:


#55

I currently have two types in stock
Moerman soft, which goes in anything with liquidator end clips, and Black Diamond soft, which goes in everything else.

So… Same compound, different dimensions (would have never known unless you told me a few months ago)


#56

Test with both rubbers Samuel. You will probably get slightly different results. The main advantage should be with the BD. I’ve found I have to blade with a slightly shallower angle so your mod should sort that. The interesting test will be with Moermans own slightly wider rubber. Keep us posted.


#57

Have said this when Moerman first came out with them.
Although they were to flexible then.(clips)
Not as much now.
Straighten the dogear like in the video.


#58

Already tested with both. This mod + BD rubber work as well as the factory form end clips + Moerman rubber. With the mod AND Moerman rubber, it is almost as easy to use as a traditional unmodified channel.

I’m a little excited, cause each tweak like this teaches me more about how tiny design details affect performance and usability. But it’s also a tad disappointing, since I see how simple it is to make the Liquidator a more forgiving tool with no sacrifice in performance. Makes me think the chaps at Moerman aren’t critically evaluating their creations to a sufficient degree.


#59

The more I think about it, the more I am convinced this would solve most of the streaking issues.

Directly comparing the 1.0 and 2.0 clips it’s apparent that they have VERY similar dimensions. But I never had an issue with the 1.0, where the 2.0 is just a constant headache.


#60

All that has to be done is the ends tips need to be 1mm or so higher then the channel.
Then you have the same effect.
Here is examples
This play list to show different ways to do the same thing with other squeegee channels.
Go to 1.18 minute mark just click To see many other related videos on this subject.


#61

I’m posting here cause there is apparently no forum topic category for “beating a dead horse”.

Not sure if this has already been done but here is a simple way to shore up the weaknesses inherent in Moerman’s latest design, and have the Liquidator more easily achieve its intended purpose, without modification.

Ledge-eze handle (brass): Does not engage the rubber in any way, and does not slide up and down the channel.
Liquidator 2.0 channel with fliq pad clips
Unger green clips to prevent rubber bunching

Fliq pad and straight pulls for pole work. Separate strip washer for fanning at ground level.


#62

i use the ledge ez with the liquidator and flick sometimes when doing straight pulls with a pole


#63

instead of the unger clips we jam a tooth pick in each end and snap it off, then when we pull out the rubber if we lose it at least it will biodegrade


#64

Ugh… A three year old is already play with the Elmers glue…

So you liking the ledge eze with the brass backing w/2.0?..


#65

Having only used that configuration since this morning, my initial feeling is that I can take it or leave it.

It’s nice for pole work but still a bit slow in the hand (for me) compared to a standard channel. Maybe worth the switch for heavy pole days. Time will tell so I’m gonna give it a few weeks.