I was wrong about what I said about the coating being on the outside of the glass. My apologies for inaccurate information. Upon doing more research (which I am not finished with yet) I found out that the coating on the outside is only the titanium oxide we’ve heard about for a while now.
I am still not clear on all of this yet, but since I began this post I wanted to update this info for future reference.
The following few paragraphs are pasted info I found and copied from another site. Also found out that Milgard has somewhat the same product.[/B][/U]
Here is what I found:
There are basically five types of LowE coatings currently on the market.
Three are “sputter” or softcoats and two are “pyrolytic” or hardcoats.
Of the three softcoat products, basic LowE would be considered a high solar heat gain product. LowE2 would be considered a low solar heat gain product, and LowE3 would be considered an even lower solar heat gain product.
Andersen’s LoE4 has a standard LowE2 coating between the lites and argon gas for energy performance, but it also includes a titanium dioxide coating on the exterior of the window that makes the glass “self-cleaning”.
Although some folks might cringe at the term self-cleaning, the coating does work quite nicely and you will notice a difference in how they look and in how often you will have to clean the glass.
Finally, the “4th” feature of the LoE4 is a plastic film that is applied to the glass in the factory that protects it from dirt and debris and even minor scratches during shipping and handling and install.
Andersen’s SunII glass is a tinted LowE2 that has very nice solar heat gain blocking ability and also it is nice because it cuts down on glare as well.
Milgard’s SunCoat is a standard LowE2 product - much the same as the LowE2 that Andersen offers as their standard.
SunCoatMax is a LowE3 product. The LowE3 product is very new and has only been around for maybe 3 or 4 months - this doesn’t mean avoid it because it is new - it means that it is an advancement of a proven technology and it works really well.
LowE3 has the same heat blocking ability as a tinted LowE2 (such as SunII), but with visible light transmittance very similar to a standard LowE2 product - without tint.
In the case of a west-facing door that has both heat and glare issues, then you may prefer a tinted LowE but with the understanding that the view thru the door will be less.
SunII has either 38% or 40% visible light transmittance (I forget which version they use) and SunCoatMax has 66% visible light transmittance - again with very comparable solar heat blocking capability. Standard LowE2 (including SunCoat) has about a 70-72% visible light transmittance.
Standard LowE has about a 78% visible light transmittance, but it also passes significant solar heat which is an advantage in places other than where you live.
I didn’t mention anything about hardcoat coatings because none of the products you mentioned use them. Also, they are much less appropriate in your environment (primarily cooling) than are sputter coats.
No LowE coating has an affect on sound propagation thru the glass. "
[B][U]Please note, the source of this information does not come from an official or trusted source.[/U][/B]
If you are not aware of this already, please educate yourself and do some research because this WILL affect you and your business from now on.
Previously, the Low-e coating has always been on sides 2 or 3 (inside the IG unit) which did not affect us at all.
The new windows that are already installed in some newer homes. We had an estimate request from a nice woman who mentioned that her windows were new but that the manufacturer (Anderson) will void the warranty if any kind of “harsh” soaps are used, and of course, no razors.
So, I did some digging, and found out that the coatings are also on the exteriors and the interiors of the windows.
[B][U]Which would also put an end to the FD issue since razors absolutely can’t be used.[/U][/B]
It would also mean that no stickers should be on that glass, and that if the builders don’t know about this and continue to let the other trades muck up the glass-they’re screwed.
It would be a perfect oportunity to not only educate yourself, but also inform the builders and commercial clients you currently do have about the new product and also your new procedures.
Here is the info from Anderson. (Tried to attach the PDF download from them but its too large, here is the link to download for your records. Scroll to the bottom and click the care and maintenance guide).By the way, Old Castle has them as well. Take a look at their new site, and new biz name. We all know that they are the worst for FD, but now? They absolutely HAVE to turn out good product.
This is from Old Craple’s site regarding the cleaning methods to be used…NO AMONIA…
Do not expose the edges of any laminated glass to organic solvents, acids or any cleaner containing
ammonia, which can react with the plastic components. Once the glazing is installed, the glazing contractor
should ensure that the glazing is protected from possible damage caused by the construction practices of
other trades. Take particular care during the initial cleaning, especially if the surfaces are severely soiled.
Never attempt to remove dry deposits. NEVER use a sharp blade or scraper to remove deposits or clean
First flush with water to soften and remove as many contaminants as possible. Then use a clean squeegee
to remove excess water, ensuring that abrasive deposits do not get trapped between the squeegee and the
glass surface. Then use a mild nonabrasive, nonalkaline cleaner and a soft, grit-free cloth to clean the
glass. Rinse immediately with water, removing excess water with a squeegee.
For routine cleaning, a mild soap or detergent, with lukewarm water, can be used with a clean, grit-free
cloth. Dry the surface immediately and never allow metallic or hard objects, such as razor blades or
scrapers, to come into contact with the glass.”[/B]
I spoke with Tony Evans about this yesterday morning, who knows about it as well long before myself who says that if the glass has FD on it, and the low-e coating is on it that it will be very obvious.
So, read up on it so that you know what you are up against when you encounter it.