DIY - WFP RO/DI Multi-Stage Setup Squeak N' Squeegee Style


Okay everyone, I have seriously gotten into the WFP bug and I haven’t even opened my Tucker WFP and DI tank that just arrived!!!

At heart I’m an engineer, nerd, mechanic, scientist, I mean seriously the list goes on. I try to be really good at what I do. I try to master each skill before I learn another (Notice i didn’t say move on).

I know what I want and I want a RO/Di system setup and I want it now. But I have a wife and 2 kids to support as well so I need to find a happy medium. Well I was able to get my hands on some special gear for only $600-$800! (Full price list and details PENDING!!)

Below is my diagram I drew after watching lots of videos and well just knowing this stuff as well (Hint why I work at Ace Hardware) and I think I came up with the correct order of things, My only question is going to be HOW and WHERE to install the flush/discharge valves for the RO.
Pictures and Video Pending! Please Stay Tuned and Watch my Youtube Channel @

SO EXCITED!!! (JUST A FEW MORE !!!) @Streakerfree

Opinions, criticism and all sorts of help needed, but please no plain ol haters. And no I’m not buying a complete done made one. But I wont complain if Chris or Alex make a post in here for others on complete kits!


I really think its overkill for all those pre- filters, just use the 2 in 1 carbon/ sediment.


Saying 1 as sediment and 1 as carbon, or the single that is both sediment/carbon?

Because I love the idea of having them separate , I was more trying to decide if i needed both 1 and 5 micron. I ordered 3 encasement anyway they are only $13 so I could always just hook it up to my house!

Or I could turn the 3rd into a DI tank, but then I would need a new refillable cartridge


Single that is both sediment/carbon
Why would you need 1-5 micro filtration, I went to a water purification shop and they tried to sell me all these $50 filters and stuff, its just unnecessary for pure water to clean windows the more filters you have the money it cost to run.


I can get the awesome filters for $2 each which is why i orders cases and the carbon for $8 each so im not worried about the filters and price.


My case of carbons cost me like 3 bucks a filter delivered.

If you are making a portable unit, those filters add more weight. The Xero pure weighs about 70 pounds as is with a 4"x40" membrane and the carbon filter and DI.

IMO, any prefilter more than a good carbon is overkill and added expense/weight with little to no realized benefit.

The waste water AND the filtered water come out the bottom of WCR’s system.

You don’t want a 160 PSI pump either. The Wayne PC4 pushes plenty of pressure, and YES you will want one if you go over 2 stories high or work with wells. You don’t need an inline TDS. as the hand types work fine.


I did the same thing bro, I made a diagram almost identical to yours and had the same reasons for doing so, family, and trying to get the best possible for as little possible, but to be honest it’s overkill. I decided to go with a system like the Tucker with a carbon/carbon sediment pre filter, RO membrane, and di filter. Super simple and does more than enough for me to go up to six stories with a pump. Nothing complicated, straight out the box and made my money back on the first two jobs. It’s too easy to complicate it bro, trust me I was in the same situation and thought the same exact things.


Unfortunately it is WAY too late! I am way too into building things from scratch and engineering some fun in the sun!

We shall see how awesome this turns out or watch it blow up in my face! AT LEAST IM TRYING WOOT WOOT!

I still need to figure out how to do the Discharge from RO, but once I have everything here (where is that late UP truck) Ill know what to do!


I hope it works out for you, goodluck!


Me too, and in the end it is lots of fun, and if my invention doesn’t work out, I can always Make a Xero pure IMMITATION! with the gear!! Lol


Okay stuff has begun to arrive, waiting on my univalve and zero pure hose and my DA TOOL. Along side carbon filters that got delayed.

Here are some amazing pictures… this is just stage two right now. MAJOR work in progress. Opinions always welcomed even if ignored :stuck_out_tongue:


Which RO filter did you buy?


The convenience of pushing a button and checking yes instantly is priceless.

Filling a cap, dipping it and storing the separate TDS meter doesn’t work for me if there is another option


Correct me if I’m wrong but when I did my research for the system that wanted to build, the RO membrane should be a Reverse Osmosis Membrane 4 x 40" Ultra Low Pressure (80 psi) - Super High Flow.


I was told by 3-4 people NONE FROM WCR. (Don’t want to step on Alex or Chris’ toes). That I could use either the RO membrane 125 or the 250PSI. The higher being able to handle and push out more pressure… please tel me I didn’t goof on my first RO MEMBRANE. I can return it and get eh lower PSI ONE if needed.


Also my RO TANK is exactly the same one they use for the Xero Pure and others. I’ll post a “specs” and price list momentarily and make a better version later.

Here is my invoice for the items ordered…

Also thought I would upload my houses TDS… be jealous! I know i know… why Batman, why do you want a 5 stage RODI system with such low TDS… because are water is shit and contains lots of large particles always getting trapped in my households 3 stage filter.

Also in the surrounding cities and even my mother in laws located in West Salem, has harder water in the 100’s I know still low but I do a lot of farmers and well water users. They always have a much higher TDS OF 250+ I protect myself for any future variables.

Did I mention this is fun for me?


Those are the minimum permeate flow (water flow rate, psi) needed to operate the RO membrane efficiently. So say the typical home has a water psi of anywhere between 50 to 60psi and the average commercial property is 80psi. If you’re using a 125psi membrane, the permeate flow (psi) of the average home or commercial property isn’t enough to efficiently run the 125psi membrane. I did alot of research and that is where my conclusion led me, to believe that in order to run an efficient system I would need an RO membrane that fell in those psi ranges. Again, someone correct me if I am wrong please.


That’s great when you are standing next to the system. Not so much when you are on the other side of the house and want to monitor your TDS.

I prefer the time consuming, fill the cap. The meter fits my back pocket great!


Yup, you got the wrong RO membrane bro.

You need an Axeon HF5 membrane.


The difference I believe is we only check our tds at start of job and after. Our filters go for a month before we need to change.