Buffering Hard Water Stains

Looks great…did you seal them afterward?

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Very nice work. I have been mixing my own compounds for decades now. Based on ceriums, aluminum oxides, and microcrystalline silicas. My latest called SKRUB is used in my cleaner for fingerprint removal, and HWS removal. For the latter I wet a clean window with soapy water then apply several drops of SKRUB to the felt pad. Then I polish, soap, and squeegee. Very little mess to clean up. This process is really much more efficient by cutting down on how much compound you need, and cuts down on the time taken to clean up. SKRUB should work with any system out there. My only advice is always keep that pad completely flat on the glass at all times. To prevent that invisible scratch haze that shows up in the direct sun causing lawsuits. Not good! I like F1 wool pads. And developed my Wobble Wheel to maintain flatness. Here is a little video I did up a couple years ago demonstrating both the wheel and another HWS remover I call a slow release coating for any pad really. The WW is kind of magical as it is also gyroscopic and completely eliminates that aweful grab you get with other systems out there. You can even use it one handed guys. I wish SOME manufacturer would “steal” the design. Here I have coated a felt pad. Check it out and tell me what you think.

Henry
henrygroverjr@gmail.com

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Yes I used the Seal after words

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WOW! Those look great. I’m definitely going with that next time. I like the Diamond Dust I’m using now but I think what you used did a better job.

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Very user friendly

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My two pennies,

I’ve done hundreds of restoration jobs, no joke, on commercial buildings and there are quite a few tricks before using acid that are not so bad as doing it “by hand”. If you want to know a really easy, cheap method PM me and I’ll put you up on game.

DON’T USE A BUFFER.

I know some like to use one, but not only do you really not need one, but there is a good chance you’re going to burn the glass and just make a huge headache for yourself. Besides, it’s freaken messy using a buffer and you’re going to spend more time cleaning up your mess than the actual removal of stains.

Other than the method I hinted to earlier, the easiest way to get the stains off is with acid. WCR sells OneRestore and also jeez I forgot the name of the stuff by Winsol but its hydrofluoric acid. Get a gallon of both.

Now theres a trick to using the stuff. FIRST READ THE LABELS AND DIRECTIONS ON BOTH.

AFTER you’ve done that, use OneRestore first because its the lightest acid of the 2. Test EACH PANE FIRST before you put any chemical on it by first cleaning the glass normally.

Have your chem gloves on (use the ones that go up to or passed the elbow, and even tho it looks stupid WEAR GOGGLES!).

Have a 5 gallon bucket almost full of just water.

Have a garden hose with a gun on the end ready with the water on.

Take a sponge and put one in your water bucket, the other in a bucket with just your acid in it (pour only what your gonna use for your test)

Take your water hose and drench your target windows with water AND ALSO THE WALL UNDERNEATH THE GLASS.

Try and do this OUT OF THE SUN because if the acid dries on your glass you are screwed. Those panels ain’t cheap. Trust me, I’ve burned plenty of panels before you don’t only pay for one panel because they have to custom make them and they will not only make one panel, you’d be paying for at least five even if you burned only one.

So take your sponge with the solution on it and wipe the bottom corner of the glass, and as soon as the spong hits the glass take it off and back to the bucket.

Take your hose and wet the glass and run off down to the ground.

Squeegee your panel, and look to see if its burned. You are looking for tin etching. Search the term here for more on that.

If you see no reaction, then you are next looking to see if the acid even worked. If it didn’t do the same thing with the Winsol stuff, but this time use your sponge and move it around on the glass in the same area for about 30 seconds, again, keep the glass wet with the acid.

Don’t let it dry.

Use your hose again.

If it worked, you know what to use.

If you get the job, you will need another set of hands to help you. You do it alone and your asking for trouble.

I’ve used soaker hoses taped with duct tape underneath the mullions to keep walls wet so as not to bleach the glass, but working up to three stories with acid gets a bit tricky. You need to remember that what go’s up must come down and if theres a breeze, or a stray splash, that can get into someone’s eyes. Or on someones new mercedes. So make sure you use barricades and caution tape and make your work zone big enough to MAKE people obey it. Otherwise, gonna have to make it on a weekend when less people are there.

This is a huge risk for you and your outfit, also, your saving them thousands because they won’t need new windows. PRICE IT ACCORDINGLY.

I once got 10K on a job that took 6 hours to do. Have photos to prove it and Brian from CAS and I bid on the same job so if you don’t believe me go ahead and ask him, he’ll tell you. Payment upon completion baby. I love restoration jobs when they come around.

Again, if you want another way to do it without acid hit me up by PM.

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@Iluminous

James did you use the liquid polish or the powder from Mr. Hardwater on the frames? Approximately how much time did it take to do the commercial glass and frames?

It was 166 square feet of damaged glass not including frames I did in 8 hrs. I used the powder on the frames.

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Thanks for the response James.

I tried the new Makita buffer I got from Home Depot last week. It works great! I used a yellow warrior pad from Harbor Freight and Diamond Dust Stain Remover. I’ll have some pictures in the next month or a little sooner.

Thanks everyone for their feedback and advice. Hope everyone’s having a good winter. Talk to you guys soon.

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@Majestic66 ^^^^

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I’m buying one this weekend good to hear.

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That was such a good write up on technique that I saved it as a Word doc. Thanks for sharing your experience @thorSG1

What was the first chemical you used when you did it by hand , an how much faster was it with the Makita ?

Thanks man.
Since people are posting photos, here’s a few of mine.

wish I could find the large scale ones, but it took me ten minutes to find these and I gotta scoot.

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The first chemical was the same Diamond Dust. I used microfiber towels and bronze wool pads. The buffer did work faster, but messier. So keep an eye out for flying chemicals, wear glasses, and don’t forget to wipe the whole glass again when you’re done. Not just the applied area if it’s a really big window.

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If you tape off the frames with painters tape and paper or plastic it makes cleanup a breeze.

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Great idea! I’ll give it a shot.